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Posted by Troll
- January 12, 2013, 11:15:34 AMNo. actually, it's not. If the exhaust cycle is complete, there will be no spark at all on the exhaust stroke cylinder, but if there is any burnable fuel left over, there will be some. It's not intentional, just a fact of electrical flow properties. Since there is no compression on the exhaust stroke, any fuel that gets burned produces no power, just a little flame. This system has been around since the late 'teens. Any twin with one set of points to trigger the coils has used it. Modern systems, falling under the newer emission laws, have gone to a "single fire" type of system. This is a shot of my '78 hotrod ElectraGlide the day I sold it with a Dyna SingleFire ign system. Each cylinder is fired by it's own coil, both plugs at the same time. There are 2 electronic pick-ups in the system, each timed separately, connected to it's own coil. This is the way that the later systems that have to meet stricter emission standards with feedback injection are set up. I did it to the Harley because it let me adjust the timing to minimize pinging with a 9.5:1 compression ratio in a world of poor quality fuel. The Drifters are not feedback, but rather, a mapped system that does not adjust for exhaust content.
Posted by John Hopkins
- January 11, 2013, 19:59:29 PMwow is that another way of saying that it is a CDI system with one plug firing on the ignition stroke and the other firing on the exhaust stroke to burn any unignited fuel..
John.
Posted by Troll
- January 08, 2013, 16:02:45 PMJust a thought..... .08 mm is .032 inch. Fuel mixture plays a substantial role in the spark propagation. the Drifter uses a waste spark system that allows the spark to jump the gap with the lowest resistance. Here's how it works: There are 2 plugs in the cylinder, but they are connected to different ign. coils. When the fuel mixture is burnable, the electrons waiting at the plug's gap are able to ionize the mixture in a localized area, creating a low resistance path that they follow across the air gap. The ionized fuel will easily catch fire, and the process is started. The other 2 plugs are living in a non burnable atmosphere of exhaust gasses. The exhaust gasses cannot be ionized, therefore the low resistance path is not created. This process, essentially causes all (most, not all) of the spark energy to go to the plug with the easiest path. If a plug is wet with fuel, the spark has the ability to follow the insulator down into the plug shell, not across the air gap. This will, essentially take that pair of plugs out of the process. The wider the air gap, the greater the resistance to spark propagation. Modern cars, with their high energy ign. systems produce upwards of 50,000 V at the plug, but even these systems cannot fire everything. I've seen distributor cars eat through the middle of the ign rotor if the plugs are badly enough worn, and coil pack cars (like the Drifter, and most all motorcycles) carbon track the coil pack and wires.
Posted by ChilliDrift
- January 08, 2013, 06:37:17 AMIf that battery is attached and you are using the Jump Pack it will likely cause starting problems. If the battery is removed and it runs and starts fine, It is.. as you know know, the battery. Batteries can do more than just go dead. I think that a shorted cell is your problem.. Some stores will sell you a smaller battery that is technically big enough to start your bike,..and then give you an adapter to increase the height. But the correct battery is worth searching for. IVe found that the simplest solution is often the best with these bikes. THey are tough. With only a few issues that are common.
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 08, 2013, 00:29:19 AMThe bike would start on the jump pack so i put it all back together not thinking about trying it without the pack, went to goto work and same crap, turns over great but wont attempt to start up.
SO at least i'm sure i need a battery.
I have a tester that goes in the wires with adjustable gap and it can go over .1 with the gap and still get spark, but im guessing its weak enough that it gets blown out.
SO off to order a battery i suppose
Posted by 45 Bravo
- January 07, 2013, 21:37:48 PMVery strange, could the coil packs be weak?
, old or degraded plug wiring not delivering full voltage?
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 07, 2013, 20:14:34 PMpulled the plugs several times to clean them because of this, barely smell like gas and not really wet or fouled
Ok to rule something out i took my old plugs and closed the gap to about .03 or so
And guess what it's running now, so for some reason my bike wont run with the correct gap on the plugs
went and regapped the new ones to .06 and itll run, dont have a .07 tool so itll have to do for now
Posted by Troll
- January 07, 2013, 14:12:33 PMthe tip over switch just needs to have the ignition cycled to reset it. I was doing an ERC class last June, and I leaned mine over far enough in the double S turn to trigger it.....very embarrassing! Pull a plug and see if it's wet. I've flooded mine a few times when it's cold out and the battery was marginal, and that's what happens. Don't try holding the throttle open to clear the flood...found out that this system does NOT shut off the fuel if you do that, like a car would.
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 07, 2013, 12:40:01 PMI have been 43 miles since i filled it up so way over 1/2 tank, an the kill switch is in the right position, otherwise it does absolutely nothing
upon further testing what i assume is the tip over switch infront of the battery with the hex/phillips head bolt, if i unplug it, turn it upside down or shake it the bike doesnt change "cranking" behavior.
is there a way to bypass or test it?
i know its a magnetic switch but whatever is in there sounds very loose and rattles around alot, maybe its suppose to be that way but idk.
just strange regardless of what i do with it it doesnt affect it
Posted by ChilliDrift
- January 07, 2013, 12:16:37 PMKill switch?
Posted by DC
- January 07, 2013, 12:00:57 PMNot trying to be smart but . . . . fuel?
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 07, 2013, 11:43:26 AMwith the jump pack hooked up it doesnt drop below 13 volts even and has 3000+ cca
it spins over super quick and smooth, it just doesnt even seem like its trying to combust, it make a little puf puff sound but nothing like and engine trying to crank
it's hard to explain really what it sounds like but its not like it catches then dies or really that it's even combusting, the only thing i can think of since it has spark is it doesnt have fuel
but i dont know of any way to check that on this bike, i cant exactly get to the injector with the tank on and without it there is no fuel pump for pressure so idk what to do
Posted by pcarrell
- January 07, 2013, 11:26:48 AMI believe you need 12.7 or so for it to start.
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 07, 2013, 11:16:53 AMdrops to 10 with battery alone, doesnt drop with pack
It turns over quickly and smoothly, it just doesnt sound like it's trying to start at all
would it throw a code if in injector wasnt working? or maybe just clogged?
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 07, 2013, 09:12:03 AMWell with the jump pack hooked up it shouldnt drop any as it has 3x 1000cca batteries in it
ill check with just the battery alone though but i'm sure it cant be good