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Posted by CDNRatMan
- December 20, 2012, 20:53:20 PM 
ok your back on my lottery list again.......
Posted by 45 Bravo
- December 20, 2012, 19:49:14 PMI would never call your house the rat shack. A Drifter lives there!
As a ham radio operator, we have our radio/work room the "ham shack", when radio shack trade marked the shack name, they forced autoshack to change their name to autozone. And tried to sue over the ham shack name..
I try to do as little trade with them as possible..
But I would never call your abode a shack...
45 Bravo
Posted by CDNRatMan
- December 20, 2012, 17:26:13 PMI never sold you nothing so leave me out of this problem......
Posted by 45 Bravo
- December 20, 2012, 15:21:47 PMI ordered the key switch today, will take a week to come in.
I jumpered the pin 37, but when i turned on the switch, all the lights came on again and stayed on, no flashing from the FI light (and i waited for a minute with the ignition on. )
I bought a new resistor today from rat shack, (100 ohms, 2watts) $1.29 for 2 of them, and will play with the old switch after i get in the new one. Maybe there is a emergency fix there.
Thanks guys, I will keep you posted.
ian
Posted by chief
- December 20, 2012, 13:53:48 PMYou misread the instructions.
The ECU instructions tell you if during the light check the FI light doesn't come on you have a lighting circuit problem. It also says if the FI light comes on while the bike is running you have a DFI SYSTEM problem. Once you jumper appropriately as long as that FI light comes on after a reset you have a fault code in there. There may be more than one.Evidence points to an ignition switch problem. I'd replace that, but some folks prefer to eliminate all other possibilities before replacing parts.
[size=78%] [/size]
Posted by Troll
- December 20, 2012, 09:37:21 AMI'm sending you all bills.....
Seriously... Diagnostics as well as repair is what I did for my working life..keeps your brain working. Armed with books, and 40+ years of experience, I'll help where I can, or at least try.
Posted by ChilliDrift
- December 19, 2012, 20:14:17 PMIf sooo, you need to be one the receiving end of the donations pool. And that's cool.
Posted by Troll
- December 19, 2012, 19:27:18 PMI'm only in it for the money....
Posted by ChilliDrift
- December 19, 2012, 19:20:36 PMTroll.... this is why your a hell of a man. Your a fine American. A true biker that takes the time to help a brother out!
Posted by 45 Bravo
- December 19, 2012, 19:12:24 PMI did those things last night, I even replaced the negative ground cable with a new one I had bought a few months ago.
Checked key wire connections.
No go, then did ecu test, all the lights stayed on.
So the instructions in the earlier post said the problem is the DFI if that happens.
I talked to the local shop today, and told them what was happening, and the symptoms.
I never mentioned the key switch possibity.
The owner said they have had 3 fi vulcans with similar symptoms over the years, and he said after much parts changing, and labor, it was the key switch on all three..
I guess I will just cough up the cash for the new key.
But with my luck, it will be the pump...I still try what troll suggested after I get the new key in to see if I can figure out a way or mod to bypass that feature for future riders..
Ian
Posted by Troll
- December 19, 2012, 18:33:31 PMsure don't want to steer you wrong, but it's kinda hard doing this over the internet...I have a 2001, so yours MIGHT be a little different, but.....There are 5 wires connected to the ign switch..one battery + (white wire), two lighter wires that run to the front and rear lights, one heavy wire that runs to the junction box (brown), and a lighter gray wire that runs to terminal 3 on the ecm. This is the tricky wire. According to the wiring diagram, it's there, but the legend for the ckt. pins says it's unused. This is the wire that was not getting proper voltage on mine, and caused the whole problem. The thunder ign. switch the P.O. had put on deteriorated at he connections, and the inline resistor failed. Incorrect (or no) voltage on this ckt. will cause a no start condition....cranks, spark, etc, but no fuel pump. There is a link on the mods and tips section talking about this problem. I found the link AFTER I spent way too much money and time...http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/jobearIgnition.html
Notice that the 100ohm resistor goes into the line to the "unused" pin#3 on the ECM......
Posted by chief
- December 19, 2012, 16:49:47 PMStart at the beginning...
Ensure your battery connections are good, plugs and wires good and secure. Make sure the connections are good to the ignition switch. (I replaced a bad battery a couple of years ago... the replacement new battery was also bad - it showed full charge, but failed under load. New battery doesn't necessarily mean GOOD battery... though this is unusual. )Try to start... if it fails, run the ECU test. (Link in previous post).
That will show any problems with: Sensors for throttle, vacuum, inlet air temp, coolant, atmospheric pressure; but also for the vehicle down sensor, pickup coils, injectors, fuel pump and ignition coils. If there are no fault codes, you can pretty much eliminate those things.Posted by 45 Bravo
- December 19, 2012, 12:42:38 PMThe reason I was asking about testing is I just spent $100+ on a battery I apparently didn't need, I would hate to spend 100 on an ignition I didn't need.
Things are tight at the moment as my wife just had surgery the day before thanksgiving, and I am having surgery on the 28th.
And it is my only means of transportation. (Other than having the wife get up early and drive me to work)
Thanks for the info on the hidden feature..Ian
Posted by Troll
- December 19, 2012, 09:20:06 AMThe wiring on the switch has an interesting hidden feature. There is a resistance wire or resistor built into the circuit that sends a 5V signal to the fuel controller. They did this to prevent hot wiring and ride off thefts...That was where my thunder switch was causing the trouble. A stock switch is like $90, and comes with 2 keys that don't match your other locks...bonus!
Posted by 45 Bravo
- December 18, 2012, 21:58:25 PMMine is stock, (as far as I know)
Can you tell me this Troll.
If I direct connect the 2wires from the key switch, should it work the same? Just to test to see if it is the switch?
I have done some googling, but haven't had many hits on places that sell 1999 1500 drifter ignition..
Any idea what they cost?Ian