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Topic summary

Posted by Troll
 - December 18, 2012, 18:16:04 PM

That is exactly the same symptoms mine had. It  had a thunder ign. switch, now it has a stocker...

Posted by 45 Bravo
 - December 18, 2012, 17:17:09 PM

ok, now the lights stay on, and the pump doesn't run at all.

I ran the test, grounded pin 37, and when i turn the ignition back on, the FI light comes on, so according to the thread,  it says there is a problem with the DFI.

any suggestions?

Ian

Posted by chief
 - December 18, 2012, 14:53:26 PM

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/ECUFaultCodes.html

This provides ecu testing info. This shows any faults in a bunch of sensors, fuel pump, injectors, coils etc. If there are any.

Posted by 45 Bravo
 - December 17, 2012, 22:56:14 PM

Thanks for that info Troll.

so, i have been trying some trouble shooting, when i turn the key on, the fuel pump runs, then quits, the FI light, temp. and oil lights all go off.

When i hit the start switch, if the temp light, and FI light come back on, it won't start, but turn the key off, then back on, the pump runs, the lights go off, and i hit the button again, some times the lights come back on and it won't start, some times, they stay off and it fires right up.

Something is strange.

tried it 12 times in a row, it started 5 of the 12 times. the other 7 times, the FI and temp light came back on, and it would not fire.

ideas?

45 Bravo

Posted by Troll
 - December 17, 2012, 20:34:01 PM

Doesn't have a real post...did the fuel pump run the first time? I (and quite a few others) had to replace the ign. switch due this intermittent no start problem. Mine would do it after along run, and would restart after it sat for a little while. No fuel pump, no start. The last time I had it out before discovering the ign. switch problem, I rode 350 miles that day, and then it wouldn't start about 1/2 mile from my house, after I filled it up...had to walk home...could have been a hellofalot worse...

Posted by 45 Bravo
 - December 17, 2012, 20:27:12 PM

Ernscott is on to something, Lately i have been having an occasional issue with my drifter not starting.

It has always been dead reliable, whether the temp is 10 deg. f, or 105 deg.f.

I replaced the battery, all seemed well, then this morning i went out, turned on the key, the red lights did not go out, i tried the starter, just turning the engine over, no fire.

I ground it for a minute or 2 off and on, nothing.

I went back in the house to get the keys to the car, i decided to try it one more time, i turned the key on, the red lights went out, and it fired right up..

IF the battery was weak(it is only 2 weeks old) it would have been even weaker after having turned the engine over for 2 minutes.

So I think the issue is some where else.

Something electrical or computer gremlin related.

Does anyone here know the POST (Power On Self Test) for the Drifter computer?

Or what may be standing in the way of it starting the computer correctly?

thanks.

45 Bravo

Posted by waltervl
 - December 05, 2012, 03:17:04 AM

Nice, A riding Drifter is allways better :)

Posted by pcarrell
 - December 03, 2012, 19:25:29 PM

Glad ya got it worked out!

Posted by ernscott
 - December 03, 2012, 08:54:47 AM

I really want to extend my thanks for the help that I received. Never would I have aimed at the battery. After checking the condition, you guys were 100% on the money on that call. I did the hot shot from only a hot battery, and she fired right up like it was parked only yesterday. I think the clue should be the oil light. It went right out when the hot battery was connected, yet stayed lit without it. Oddly enough - the battery is only 2 years old, and I have always kept it on a battery tender ?? Thanks for the help !!!!   Kindest Regards Scott

Posted by ernscott
 - December 03, 2012, 07:47:49 AM

Thanks for the jump start heads up. My plan is to just use a hot (fresh charged) battery that I have in the shop. Still have not got around to it.

Posted by Troll
 - December 01, 2012, 17:47:36 PM

Change the plugs.....NGK plugs have always had one major issue...once they are even slightly damp, they just won't fire. We have this problem with all the training bikes, too. We keep one spare set of each of the types around just in case...

Posted by pcarrell
 - December 01, 2012, 17:29:16 PM

Like 45 says, go battery to battery, with the car not running.  BAD things happen if you don't.

Posted by 45 Bravo
 - December 01, 2012, 02:04:58 AM

FYI, if you try to jump start it, i would suggest that you connect the cables between the batteries, but DO NOT start the engine on the donor vehicle..

You only want the 12 volts, and the added amperage to assist you.

You do not want the 13.8 volts, and the high amperage that a car alternator puts out, going into the more fragile electrical system of the bike..

You are likely to smoke something you don't want to...
(Voice of experience involving a goldwing and trying to jump it off)

45 Bravo

Posted by ernscott
 - November 30, 2012, 21:40:27 PM

Thank you for getting back to me with my starting issue. I been very busy towing flood cars since Sandy came to town. I should try to start the bike again on Sunday. I do hear the fuel pump run with the key turned on. The kill switch needs to be on for the bike to crank. I'm guessing to hot shot it from a car battery. I will post my findings.

Posted by pcarrell
 - November 23, 2012, 22:40:30 PM

The fuel injection runs off the battery, so one dead cell could be the problem.

When you hit the key, do you hear the fuel pump come on?

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