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Thanks for the info, I am going to try and eliminate the battery as the culprit or identify it as the case may be and let you know.
Lump
Ok, thanks
really I had no idea yet which battery to go with, I just saw the claim that it was 450 cca and thought, wow thats pretty awesome if I am going to add more accessories, but I dont have the money until later this week and I will most likely get something local.
I found a 230 cca at autozone for 99.00 but I am going to look more carefully and learn more about what makes a good battery for my bike before I buy anything.
I am going out now to try and jump it after tapping the starter, wish me luck, I hope it starts but if not I really hope this is only a battery.
Nothing else makes much sense since it was fine when I shut it off and I cant see any signs of melting wires, odd things with the electrical, etc..
I will let you know if this works though.
Lump
Left off the battery info...
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/drifterparts.html
If the engine will not "crank" - crank means engine turns over there are a few things which might be wrong...
1) blown main fuse - but you have power, so that isn't it.
2) Discharged battery -
3) Defective starter, starter relay. You hear a click, so I'd rule out #2 before proceeding.
There are more serious engine problems which might be the cause, but you need to eliminate these first.
Lumper
Be careful of that battery for 2 reasons, first it is for the BUBF series, that battery is longer and narrower than the Drifter's. secondly it is a GEL Cell type; The Gel Cell excels in slow discharge rates and slightly higher ambient operating temperatures. The big issue with Gel Batteries that must be addressed is the CHARGE PROFILE. The battery charger being used to recharge the battery has to be designed or adjustable for Gel Cell Batteries. If you are using an motorcycle alternator to recharge a true Gel Cell a special regulator must be installed. A slower charge rate is necessary. Gel Cell Batteries must be recharged correctly or the battery will suffer premature failure
anyway I moved the recently relocated rectifier out of the way to reach teh starter and tried the tapping technique, but even then without a jump or something it wont crank at all, I have to go out for a few mothers day hours, but this afternoon when I get back I will try it again and try jumping it too.
Thanks for the tips and ideas, I am psyched to see if this works, I know in my old 75 lt camaro back in the day I would have to bang on the starter sometimes to get it to turn over, that was the last sign before I had to replace it , lol. ah the good ole days where a hammer started your car.
Lump
Hey Griz, heading out to the bike with a hammer now, lol that sounds ugly.
Yes I found this batter,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190280867481&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
claims 450 cca, I didn't read closely or anything I was just bookmarking batteries to get an idea of price.
Anyway that link goes to the one I wsa looking at.
Lump
Lump,
You found a 450 CCA battery! Which one is it? Best I have found is 310CCA.
Lump,
What Troll said +...if connected correctly from an auto battery and it still wont crank?...You need to start tracing wiring to & from the Ignition switch,starter relay, check all grounds [closely],double check, that's double check, all wiring for the safety switches, etc, & so-on.
If your not well experienced?..you might need to get some help from someone more familiar....Good Luck!!
Ron
This is gonna sound strange, but take a hammer, preferably a little one, and tap the starter motor at the commutator end ( end away from the engine) TAP it a couple of times...could have a stuck brush
never cranked, only clicks the starter but no engine crank at all.
Turn he key, the dash lights up and you can hear the system pressurize.
Then all the lights go out except neutral and the oil light.
Then I click the kill switch down and try the starter switch and only get a clicking from the starter and only one click per try, its not like a starter just clicking away.
What else could it be?
The battery shows only 120 cranking amps available through the tester.
I guess the cheesy jumper cables I have here could also be part of the problem but I dont know.
Let me know what else you think it could be.
Thanks
Lump
What VN1500 said... and here's some info regarding the battery... you can look up the specs for the specific battery on the batt. mfg site.
Lump,
It wouldn't start? or wouldn't crank when you jumped it?
If you connected corrrectly it certainly should crank when jumping from a car,..good car batteries are 800-1000 cca.
Now if it cranked?, but wouldn't start.....that's a whole different problem.
Ron
Well battery is dead.
It only shows 120 cold cranking amps available and thats not going to cut it.
I am looking at batteries for next week when I get paid again, I found a 450 cca battery for the vulcan 1500 that I hope will work, I figure since I added air horns and I plan to add a light bar and a few other things I should just go ahead and get a higher rated battery now since I am replacing this one.
Stinks how sudden this came though without warning and shut me down I was really looking forward to riding this weekend
Lump
Does anyone know what the bikes specs call for for cold cranking amps when buying a battery?
IF I have that info they can test the battery for me.
I looked it up here but under specs I didn't see any mention of it.
Thanks for any info,
Lump
Ok, I went out after the rain stopped.
I can not start it even with a jump from two different cars.
I called autozone to see if they can test the batter for me and they said not without the cold cranking amps and stuff as they need the info for their computer and he said motorcycle batteries usually dont label that info, I checked and he is right it doesnt say anywhere on it.
So what now?
Just buy a battery and hope for the best?
Thats all fine and good and probably a good idea, I just cant afford one until Thursday so it looks like I am parked for the weekend an next week I guess, ugh.
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