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Got the new VDS in, it changed the behavior of everything. The bike wouldn't spark at all with the kickstand down, etc as soon as I replaced the VDS. it would try to start before even with kickstand down and the clutch out.
Still have that spark issue. Clutch sensor works, neutral switch illuminates, kill switch works, fuel pump was working. Ignition switch working.
To reiterate, it will only spark ONCE when holding down the starter. If you keep holding down the starter button, it will not continue sparking.
Any ideas?
Quote from: 53Indian on April 07, 2025, 03:32:23 AMTry the basics first.
VDS sensor, as you say
Side stand switch wires OK?
Neutral switch illuminating?
Clutch switch, under lever, not disintegrated?
Engine kill switch, they look fine but fall apart inside housing
Fuel pump connection, does it sound with ignition on?
Ignition switch?
Starter relay/fuse?
Is the motor spinning if you jump the starter solenoid?
(ECU's rarely give problems)Process of elimination, you'll find it.
Yes,
I have already gone through that entire list. The motor will spin over via the starter motor, it just has the spark issue.
VDS has no continuity, so that's a problem in the first place. Should be here tonight or tomorrow and then we will find out.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Try the basics first.
VDS sensor, as you say
Side stand switch wires OK?
Neutral switch illuminating?
Clutch switch, under lever, not disintegrated?
Engine kill switch, they look fine but fall apart inside housing
Fuel pump connection, does it sound with ignition on?
Ignition switch?
Starter relay/fuse?
Is the motor spinning if you jump the starter solenoid?
(ECU's rarely give problems)
Process of elimination, you'll find it.
Vehicle down sensor.
It has no continuity, so I went ahead and ordered a used but allegedly operational one on ebay. It was also half apart when I found it so...
Update 2: Put VDS back together, no continuity in any situation. Bike will engage starter without it, but won't spark at all without it obviously.
Perhaps, this could be my issue?
Battery tested good after a load test, also I found the VDS not together properly. Even with it messed up, it still tries to start. Could this be preventing spark? I thought a bad VDS would also prevent starter motor.
Quote from: Bucko on March 30, 2025, 00:03:59 AMDid you load test the battery?
Will do so Monday, will report my findings.
Quote from: Dustywolf on March 29, 2025, 20:15:11 PMIt is a 1999 model, so no clock that I know of.
So it sounds like the battery isn't my issue, what other things could it be? Super weird thay it only sparks once. I had hope that the circular relay was the issue... but apparently it's not even connected to the ignition system.
Did you load test the battery?
It is a 1999 model, so no clock that I know of.
So it sounds like the battery isn't my issue, what other things could it be? Super weird thay it only sparks once. I had hope that the circular relay was the issue... but apparently it's not even connected to the ignition system.
Quote from: Dustywolf on March 29, 2025, 04:13:37 AMWhen I mean external power, I am referencing a jump pack. Could a bad battery cause no spark even with the jump pack connected?
Assuming the Jump Pack is OK, it should work fine, but you should probably load test the Jump Pack too. You don't say what year your Drifter is but if it's a post 2000 model, with a clock, a real quick 'charged' battery load test is if the clock resets when you hit the starter, your battery is hooped.
When I mean external power, I am referencing a jump pack. Could a bad battery cause no spark even with the jump pack connected?
Quote from: Dustywolf on March 28, 2025, 10:03:09 AMThat's what I would think too... but even with a fully charged battery and even going as far as providing external power.. no change. I've also disabled the fuel system because yes, it kept flooding.
Not sure what you mean by 'external power' but you should load test the battery. A static voltage test on a 'charged' battery can tell you if the battery is bad, but it doesn't tell you that it's good. Measure the voltage drop while the battery is loaded (measure while cranking is a good test) - if the battery voltage drops more than a few volts, the battery is hooped.
That's what I would think too... but even with a fully charged battery and even going as far as providing external power.. no change. I've also disabled the fuel system because yes, it kept flooding.
A weak battery will still turn the engine, due to it having compression release cams, but may not have enough power to fire the plugs. The injection needs little power, so the injectors will probably still work, and flood the engine.
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