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Posted by ranxerox
- February 10, 2025, 16:43:21 PMTesting the ECU per the shop manual.
Connection 31 is supposed to show 12.5 V or more with the key ON; it shows only 1.4-1.5 V.
Connections 8, 16, 21, 24, and 32 show continuity per the shop manual.
The DFI Fuse and Main Relay are fully functional, and the ignition fuse is good. The starter has been working consistently after the relay was replaced.
I'm now sure the ECU's toast unless someone has had a different experience.
Posted by 53Indian
- January 05, 2025, 11:48:38 AMSimple checks:
Try the clutch switch, I've had them disintegrate.
Try the side stand switch, can be problematic, I usually bypass them.
Try the engine kill switch, I've known these come apart inside but look fine outside.
ECU's are bloody expensive, £300+ used in the UK, but I've never had one go.
Luckily, I've got two bikes so I can swap bits around - anyone nearby you?
Posted by drifter-paul
- December 30, 2024, 19:35:08 PMHey Ranxerox ,
If buying a new ignition switch , beware Non OEM - refer my post of 17th Aug '24
"
"Warning - Non OEM Ignition switch "
Posted by Troll
- December 29, 2024, 16:25:08 PMEcm has nothing to do with the starter. I would be suspecting the ign. switch.
Posted by ranxerox
- December 29, 2024, 12:58:10 PMHere are the particulars.
- Around 3-4 months ago, I noticed that after sitting for a week or so, the starter was reluctant to turn over. I would press the starter button, hold it for 15-20 seconds, and then the starter would crank normally, starting the bike.
- After a few times with this happening, the starter simply wouldn't engage; press the starter button, 1-click, and nothing.
- However, a heavy screwdriver across the starter relay/solenoid leads (the heavy cables that run to the starter) would get me immediate engagement.
- I do not claim my batteries are in excellent; my 2 load testers do. One is a physical load tester with the heavy coils that get super hot and one is a digital load tester. The results are the same on both load testers. Excellent health.
- With the wire-tap (to my tach) removed, the starter worked, then it didn't. I deleted the mechanical connectors and soldered the tap to the headlight wire as it was already compromised and doesn't come into play until after the starter engages. Truth be told, it had worked for more than a decade without issue.
- Resistance before and after the tap is identical regardless of the situation - key-on, key-off, headlight on, headlight off. Same.
- I tested the starter relay per the shop manual. It checked out, but I replaced it (the one with the 30 amp main fuse) as it was an inexpensive part and I thought the older one might be kicking up abnormal resistance.
- It seemed to fix the issue as the starter cranked over. So, I reassembled everything hoping to get out on the road.
- I shut down the motorcycle. reassembled it and when I turned the key, the fuel pump did not engage, but the starter did.
- Square one, disassembly.
- I tested the tip-over sensor per the shop manual. It checked out.
- I tested the fuel pump relay per the shop manual, and it functions.
- I tested the fuel pump per the shop manual, and by connecting it directly to the battery. The pump and its systems are in working order.
- I reconnected all the relays and everything went back to the beginning.
- The starter wouldn't crank over. Out of curiosity, I held it down for a bit and the starter engaged and the bike ran.
- I did look over the JB, no corrosion is visible.
- I rechecked all the visible wires and they are fine. No bare spots, frays or corrosion.
- One last thing, I have tried to get the ECM to go into self-diagnostic mode. The LED is functional, but nothing happens. No flashing lights, nothing.