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Set the idle down to approx 1,000 rpm with the knob located on the right side, below the air box. Forget about the tuner box, all they do is screw up, anyway
I have taken the PCV off and sent it to DynoJet back in NV.... they have replied in short order stating that the unit I had received was faulty and they are sending a replacement. After removing the unit, my bike is running well although a bit high on the idle... Props to DJ for standing by their product. A damn shame I spent all summer wrenching instead of riding.
I installed the new intake air temp sensor yesterday and the machine choked itself out by running too rich within six miles of the house.
Please keep us advised. Our bikes are getting older and weird stuff happens.
Inlet air temperature sensor is out of spec. ordered a new part. waiting for delivery will update.
Okay fellas I'm still fighting this thing. I put a new battery in. What is happening when I start the machine, it ran for 12 minutes before the mixture got extremely rich and choked it out. Previous to the new battery it would run for 7 minutes before it would choke itself out. I'm gaining on her. But I need it to stay running to ride it. Next check is for the Inlet air temperature sensor. I really need some help here guys. Thanks in advance.
Quote from: OR Seedman on July 12, 2022, 17:50:04 PMEngine runs smooth and quiet. My personal opinion is that the programmers are over-rated and cause more issues than they are worth.
I had the opposite experience. Lots of issues with popping, decel backfires, etc. Added the box and it immediately corrected the issues. That was about 19-20 years ago... still runs strong.
I run the same Baron's unit on my "1600" Drifter with dual longshots and reed valves capped. No programmer. Engine runs smooth and quiet. My personal opinion is that the programmers are over-rated and cause more issues than they are worth. Had one on the bike when the original engine was in. One day it just started dumping fuel into the cylinders through the injectors...dropped my mileage down below 20 mpg and it ran like crap. Pulled the unit and set it back to stock but with the Baron's Air and the longshots. Ran better than ever, so I set everything up the same way on the new 1600 engine. Burns clean with a light charcoal colored coating in my exhaust tips.
Sounds like it's just running extremely rich. I would start by disconnecting the power commander, and let the oem fuel map do the job it was programmed to do, and see what happens.
i guess I'm not 100% certain its oil. It looks like oil and feels like oil on my fingers... but when you wipe it out of the muff with a paper towel, it appears sooty.
What makes you think it's oil? A rich mixture mixed with condensation will look a lot like oil.
so i put 30 miles on and it ran well other than the high idle... i started her up 4 days later and its back to running like shit. runs choppy, blows oil out exhaust. i was sure the reed valve vac system was the culprit... now i just dont know. anyone have any ideas?
A QUICK UPDATE- i now have the machine running correctly.
NOTE- If you choose the Baron's Big Air Kit, do not install the reed valve delete blank off plates. Instead, use the marble technique and leave the reed valves alone. Baron instructions say to blank these guys off... the engine will not run properly.
currently running PCV tune .39- muzzy 2-1 and baron big air kit... the bike idles a bit high (1235 RPM @ 1% throttle). I think the dyno tuner will fix that... will update in a week or two.
the 02 mean streak 1600. I did not test run the parts individually however all accounts say an exhaust swap alone will not need a PCV
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