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Tkw, Bucko. I ordered a pump through the dealer. Not cheap, but necessary kit, I think.
Quote from: gwilki on June 04, 2021, 06:56:42 AMGet a cheap no-loss shock pump from a bicycle shop - you'll probably have a tough time finding one that has a low enough graduation on the pressure scale though as most bicycle shock pumps are relatively high pressure.Tks, Troll. I wasn't clear, I think. This particular service department puts nitrogen in them. I have no idea why.
What do you use for a pump. I've been looking online for a no-loss pump. There seem to be quite a few very pricey units.
Tks, Troll. I wasn't clear, I think. This particular service department puts nitrogen in them. I have no idea why.
What do you use for a pump. I've been looking online for a no-loss pump. There seem to be quite a few very pricey units.
No they don't They have plain old air in them. I run 25 psi...rebound set at 4.
I just got a call from the Service Manager at my local dealer. The "nitrogen in the shocks" comment was a miscommunication on the part of a relatively new service advisor. The person who advised her was referring to the rear shocks. Apparently, they load them with nitrogen rather than air.
I wanted to post this in fairness to the dealership. Miscommunications can happen.
It can't hurt to try. Tks, TJ.
I spoke to a good guy at Shinko. He was very surprised about the recommended front tire pressure. The manual says 28. He said that they recommend the pressure shown on the sidewall, +/- 2 lbs. That pressure is 49, so not even close. Mine is at about 32 right now. Interesting that the manual shows between 36 and 40 for the rear. The sidewall on my rear tire says 41 - very close.
Just a thought...rear suspension setting.
Maybe it's worth a look and adjustment.
My rear shocks are set at 13lbs with the dampener at 3. (I'm 225lbs)
Quote from: gwilki on June 03, 2021, 09:07:46 AMSounds like the weight is within reason on both wheels (assuming it is in the correct area).I apologize JT for my bad math skills. The rear wheel has 1.375oz/39grams on it, not 2.375oz.
Even if your runout both axi and rad on both wheels is within spec, I think it is still worth looking into...mismatched tires (front to rear) and the rear tire not being a "match" for the bike. Too far off what is suggested by the tire manufacturer and the FSM.
Tks, Troll. I'll add that to my list of possible causes. The list is getting much longer than I had anticipated. It will keep me off the streets.
Had a thought this morning about your issue. Seeing the age and the amount of time it's sat idle, I might think about a stiff u-joint causing the problem. http://www.vulcangadgets.com/files/ujoint.html
I apologize JT for my bad math skills. The rear wheel has 1.375oz/39grams on it, not 2.375oz.
Quote from: gwilki on June 02, 2021, 19:57:22 PMA few things come to mind...After a ride today, I started to think that maybe the issue is coming from the rear tire/wheel. TJ described my issue as like horse bucking. That's a better description that a handlebar vibration.
Since my last post, I've found the following:
The front tire is a Shinko SR777 bias ply. The front wheel has 1/2 oz of weight on it.
I have yet to measure the run out on the front wheel.The rear tire is a Dunlop Cruise Max bias ply. The rear wheel has 2 3/8 oz of weight on it. The rear wheel is out by about .030" axial, well within the spec. This measurement is with the wheel on the bike. I have yet to measure the radial. I will likely need to remove the wheel to get a radial run out measurement.
One thing that I am going to take up with Dunlop is that they say that the Cruise Max is not a match for my bike. The size is right, so I want to find out why they say that.
Having almost 70 grams of weight on the rear wheel IMHO is a lot of weight. If the "balance dot" is opposite the valve stem and the wheel weights are 180 away from the stem (assuming the weights are in the same spot)...then there is not much else you can do about it.
Your tires being mismatched (front to rear) will not help the situation. Some say you can mismatch tires with no ill effects. IIRC a few Ducatis came from the factory with mismatched tires...I don't think it's a good idea here and it may be compounding your issues.
If the manufacturer doesn't list the cruisemax as a match for the bike...construction and behavior may be different enough to not be a "match" (belted bias ply vs bias ply etc).
Too many things are not quite right with that rear tire...
After a ride today, I started to think that maybe the issue is coming from the rear tire/wheel. TJ described my issue as like horse bucking. That's a better description that a handlebar vibration.
Since my last post, I've found the following:
The front tire is a Shinko SR777 bias ply. The front wheel has 1/2 oz of weight on it.
I have yet to measure the run out on the front wheel.
The rear tire is a Dunlop Cruise Max bias ply. The rear wheel has 2 3/8 oz of weight on it. The rear wheel is out by about .030" axial, well within the spec. This measurement is with the wheel on the bike. I have yet to measure the radial. I will likely need to remove the wheel to get a radial run out measurement.
One thing that I am going to take up with Dunlop is that they say that the Cruise Max is not a match for my bike. The size is right, so I want to find out why they say that.
Tires are Shinko. I have dial gauges so I can check the run out. I have a large wood turning lathe that I can mount the wheels on and check them that way.
I'll check how much weight is on each wheel and report back.
Tks, TJ
Quote from: gwilki on June 01, 2021, 14:05:57 PM26-65 INCH/lbs from FSM.Do you bother to torque them? I'm assuming that, since you use an open end wrench, that you do not.
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