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Posted by Treecol
 - May 10, 2021, 04:05:45 AM

So I can see from the link that the rear wheel from a '95 Vulcan goes straight in with no mods, but can't see anything about the front. Am I correct in the assumption that as the rear fits, so does the front?
That must mean the speedo must fit on the front wheel?
Sorry for all the 1000's questions but I can do most mechanical things once I know what's what, but sapping wheels etc is new to me.

Posted by Treecol
 - May 09, 2021, 07:14:00 AM

Again thanks guys. I was looking for wheels that don't require modifications as that is way beyond me and I don't know anyone who could do it for me.
Also wanted to update you re the ECU. After I stripped everything down to look to see what was going on with the bike, I put it all back together and amazingly the FI light went out after starting the bike, just as it should. The dealer still wanted to fit the new ECU as they'd bought it, so they did that. It's all fine now, again FI light behaving normally. What it seems though, is that the previous owner, who Indianised the bike, has done away with the r/h/s air filter.  All the breather pipes etc connected to it have been disconnected and the whole thing does nothing. Not sure why he did it, but the bike runs fine.
With regard to the exhaust, I've seen quite a few new and used full systems for Vn1500 classics. When I've enquired with the sellers if they will fit, they all say no they won't! I'm presuming that is because they're covering their backs so I don't demand a refund if I can't get them to work. But if you guys are confident any will fit if I put the Classic passenger foot peg mount on, I'll order some.
I'm going to try to post pictures later.
BTW, at the moment I've taken the cat off and the tail pipe and am running like that.  It really does sound incredible- not as loud as I'd have thought.

Posted by OR Seedman
 - May 07, 2021, 20:57:29 PM

I put Vulcan 88 wheels on my 1500 (saw another pic of a bike on here with them)  Had them powder coated to match my paint.  the front 19" rim has to have one side bored out to 22mm to fit the inner wheel bearing brace from the 1500 stock wheel.  Wheel bearings are also needed for the front wheel.  The back wheel bolts right in (it's 15" but takes a taller tire).  pic attached.

Posted by chief
 - May 06, 2021, 15:23:56 PM
Quote from: Treecol on April 30, 2021, 05:33:30 AM

Thanks Troll for manual, so helpful.
One more thing, will VN1500 wheels fit as I'm not keen on spoke. Cheers mate.

Look here for some info on wheels

https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?action=links;cat=28
Posted by Troll
 - April 30, 2021, 07:24:53 AM

People have changed the wheels. Mostly, it looks like the popular replacement is a set of Nomad aluminum. I wasn't all that thrilled with the idea of going back to wire wheels, at first, but they have not given me any problems, and they look great when they are clean....The manual is for the "R" model, but the only real differences are in the fuel tank, the external plumbing for the injection, and, of course, the electronic speedo head.

Posted by Treecol
 - April 30, 2021, 05:33:30 AM

Thanks Troll for manual, so helpful.
One more thing, will VN1500 wheels fit as I'm not keen on spoke. Cheers mate.

Posted by Troll
 - April 29, 2021, 04:09:35 AM

Kinda figured it was more of a sensor issue than an ECU issue. Too bad the lazy "tech" at the dealer didn't think to look before ordering a part that almost never fails...

Posted by Treecol
 - April 29, 2021, 02:41:17 AM

Wow thank you both!! I'd appreciate both the PDF and the paper one please. My email is
colinmitchell63@outlook.com
I've taken off the right side air filter cover where the homemade filter was. It was a chunk of foam! But I've also discovered that when the original owner had removed the Kawasaki one and modified an Indian one to fit, he'd unplugged the wire that reads the air temperature. Hed also disconnected two breather pipes from that two. So the FI light was never going to go out and the fuelling always wrong.
I've taken the tank off and am trying to trace if the wire is there at all or if he cut it. I'm tracing it back to the ECU but the manual will really help.
It may be that when the dealer has it back that we get them to order the original Kawasaki one, reinstate the wire and the breather pipes. Whatever, I think most of the profit the dealer made will be eaten up sorting this out!
Turns out the bike was imported from the US in 2014. I think it was Indianised in the States and so it may be a bike you know. I'll post some photos when I can work out how.
THANKS GUYS! You're the best!!!

Posted by Troll
 - April 28, 2021, 10:53:53 AM

I have both a paper version and a .PDF copy. All I need is your email and I will send you the .pdf.

Posted by circlej
 - April 28, 2021, 07:20:41 AM

I have a Kawasaki manual, if you like I'll ship it to you. Gratis!!

Posted by Treecol
 - April 28, 2021, 06:45:59 AM

Troll, thanks again, you're a gent. My wife tried to order a Clymer manual on eBay it was $20.Dispite her pleading, he wouldn't ship it to us for some reason. So I have a very cheeky request: if I bought it, could I have it sent to you and then send you the money for shipping to the UK and get you to send it over to me? I'll give you something for your time too.
Feel free to say "no" though, I won't be offended. The forum wouldn't let me PM you  ;)

Posted by Troll
 - April 28, 2021, 04:08:54 AM

Since you have a replacement airbox installed, already, and the AIT sensor is IN the airbox...even more reason to suspect the sensor/wiring

Posted by Bucko
 - April 27, 2021, 16:50:45 PM

What?  Why would they recommend replacing the ECU if it's showing a fault code that the air temp sensor is goofy?  Before doing anything, you should check the condition of the connector pins in both ECU connectors.  Not sure how common it is but I've had problems with the pins in those connectors breaking.

PS: you don't need to 'plug' anything in to find the faults codes, the ECU displays them.

Posted by Treecol
 - April 27, 2021, 13:40:23 PM

Thanks Troll, I was at the dealer today and the second hand ECU had come in from the US - if took 4 days! So they are going to fit it anyway but if the issue isn't solved at least I know where to look next.
The dealer also told me today the chrome Indian air filter cover fitted to it has a homemade air filter inside. He said it's a really poor effort at an air filter so they've ordered me a K&N filter for the corresponding Indian. They are an Indian dealer.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.

Posted by Troll
 - April 27, 2021, 07:24:03 AM

I'd bet on the AIT sensor being the problem, or the 2 wires from it, before I'd condemn the ECU. On the back side of the r/h airbox is a brass sensor with a black plastic connector. The sensor is inside the airbox, where it can get air flow over it. The two wires go to the ECU. I spent 40+ years in the automotive repair industry. This is the same as almost all the early EFI systems that were installed on cars, as far back as 1966. This is not special, it's actually a very simple system. There is no lambda sensor, and MAF sensor, just a mapped ECU program that has a cell for each expected situation.

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