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Posted by Treecol
- April 28, 2021, 06:45:59 AMTroll, thanks again, you're a gent. My wife tried to order a Clymer manual on eBay it was $20.Dispite her pleading, he wouldn't ship it to us for some reason. So I have a very cheeky request: if I bought it, could I have it sent to you and then send you the money for shipping to the UK and get you to send it over to me? I'll give you something for your time too.
Feel free to say "no" though, I won't be offended. The forum wouldn't let me PM you 
Posted by Troll
- April 28, 2021, 04:08:54 AMSince you have a replacement airbox installed, already, and the AIT sensor is IN the airbox...even more reason to suspect the sensor/wiring
Posted by Bucko
- April 27, 2021, 16:50:45 PMWhat? Why would they recommend replacing the ECU if it's showing a fault code that the air temp sensor is goofy? Before doing anything, you should check the condition of the connector pins in both ECU connectors. Not sure how common it is but I've had problems with the pins in those connectors breaking.
PS: you don't need to 'plug' anything in to find the faults codes, the ECU displays them.
Posted by Treecol
- April 27, 2021, 13:40:23 PMThanks Troll, I was at the dealer today and the second hand ECU had come in from the US - if took 4 days! So they are going to fit it anyway but if the issue isn't solved at least I know where to look next.
The dealer also told me today the chrome Indian air filter cover fitted to it has a homemade air filter inside. He said it's a really poor effort at an air filter so they've ordered me a K&N filter for the corresponding Indian. They are an Indian dealer.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
Posted by Troll
- April 27, 2021, 07:24:03 AMI'd bet on the AIT sensor being the problem, or the 2 wires from it, before I'd condemn the ECU. On the back side of the r/h airbox is a brass sensor with a black plastic connector. The sensor is inside the airbox, where it can get air flow over it. The two wires go to the ECU. I spent 40+ years in the automotive repair industry. This is the same as almost all the early EFI systems that were installed on cars, as far back as 1966. This is not special, it's actually a very simple system. There is no lambda sensor, and MAF sensor, just a mapped ECU program that has a cell for each expected situation.
Posted by Treecol
- April 27, 2021, 04:13:31 AMHi all, me here again!
So my FI light is going off when I start the bike and then comes on for quite a while when riding. It will go off for a bit then comes on again. As I bought it from a dealer I've got some warranty on it. They've plugged it in and its fault 13 (I think). They said they ECU isn't reading the air temp sensor. The bike didn't run quite as smoothly when the light was on. They said it will run at default and that's why I can tell the difference. They are going to replace the ECU. A new one is ?1k from Kawasaki so they'll be getting a tested 2nd hand one from the US.
My concern is what happens if it doesn't fix the issue? At the moment I've only had the bike a very short time so they will give me a refund - they are saying they can't guarantee it'll fix it.
By the time they get the replacement ECU, it'll be another 6 weeks on and as I'll have been riding the bike and either modified the stock exhaust or got new ones made, I'd hate to find they can't fix the problem.
What do you guys think?