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Posted by mittico68
- May 08, 2019, 08:54:45 AMQuote from: rob f on May 08, 2019, 07:48:14 AMSo as I try to understand.... You have 12v on one end of the resistor ( that comes from the key switch) but 0v on the other end (that goes into the bike harness)?
Exactly.
And you know what?
Yesterday I bought a car charger, as said in the discussions site of your link, then I extracted the chip and added it to the grey wire, together with the 100 ohm resistor and... NOTHING! NO voltage! 
Then, I took off the resistor, leaving in place the chip: so, actually I read 11.30v on one end (that goes into the bike harness), and 12v on the other end (i.e.: coming from the key switch)... What the heck?!? 
Posted by rob f
- May 08, 2019, 07:48:14 AMWell at least you have found something Mitt.
So as I try to understand.... You have 12v on one end of the resistor ( that comes from the key switch) but 0v on the other end (that goes into the bike harness)?
Posted by mittico68
- May 07, 2019, 13:05:00 PMQuote from: Tfrank59 on May 07, 2019, 12:00:55 PMSorry Mitt as usual I got nothing but hoping you get this thing solved.
Thanx, bud.
I really hope to get it, because I wouldn't like to pay $170 for a new key switch harness...
Quote from: Tfrank59 on May 07, 2019, 12:00:55 PMIf your weather is anything like ours locally it really sucks I have your bike down
The weird weather we're facing in this days here in Italy is the only (lean) consolation... 
Posted by Tfrank59
- May 07, 2019, 12:00:55 PMSorry Mitt as usual I got nothing but hoping you get this thing solved. If your weather is anything like ours locally it really sucks I have your bike down
Posted by mittico68
- May 07, 2019, 08:54:15 AMThe never ending story is still alive...
I've just (re)added a 100 ohm resistor on the grey wire (BTW, it's got no diode inside), but again no luck at all: the engine doesn't fire up!
I've also checked the whole damn stuff, with my voltmeter and guess what? I found that the part of the grey wire that goes from said resistor to the OEM switch harness has got ZERO volts! 
The weird thing is that I can read 12v (+/-) on the resistor's lead that is connected to said part of the wire, BUT nothing after it... 
Maybe it's all because, as Rob stated before, the grey wire needs to have 5.7v only, instead of 12v?
I'm really starting to get nuts.
But before giving me up, I'll try to reduce the voltage on that wire...
Until then, any suggestion would be much appreciated.
Posted by rob f
- April 29, 2019, 07:41:47 AMGood idea. I will be curious as to what the voltage is after you reinstall it.
And just a thought........... not sure if some resistors come with a built in diode. A diode is a device that only lets current flow one way. Easy to check.... take your ohm meter and check resistance one way and then flip your leads around and check the other way. If you get a reading both ways then there is no diode.
R
Posted by mittico68
- April 28, 2019, 11:45:48 AMThanx a lot, Rob.
But before goin' that way, I wanna try to (re)add the 100 ohm resistor on the grey wire of the whole (damn) thing.
That's because I've just checked the OEM resistor and it looks like a 100 ohm.
Here's the pic of said resistor.
Posted by rob f
- April 28, 2019, 08:07:07 AMYou could try this for 12v reduction...............https://www.instructables.com/topics/How-can-I-convert-12v-down-to-5v/
This is getting out of my range of knowledge so you are on your own now. I still will be available if you need me to take some readings on my bike for comparison.
Rob
Posted by mittico68
- April 28, 2019, 04:25:40 AMSo guys, I just got back from holidays with my family, but before leaving I've found the time to check those sparks out.
And it came out that there is no spark at all, when I hit the engine switch button... 
So, I guess that the problem is related to the grey wire and its resistor, as Rob stated.
In my first attempts, I put a 100 ohm resistor in, as suggested. But now I believe it is too big, referred to the OEM tiny one.
So, next thing I will do is to check the ohm size of the OEM resistor and buy a new one, if it's smaller than the 100 ohm (as I believe).
Hope this will help...
Posted by rob f
- April 26, 2019, 08:24:16 AMI just got back from holidays in Utah. Lots of harleys but no drifters.
I see that you are still having trouble Mitt. As Troll has said, and myself also back on April 2 you have to pull the plugs, hook them back up, ground out the metal part of the plug on the metal of the bike and visually see spark. Just pulling the plug and looking at it doesn't show you much. When you do this test make sure that you do not have the spark plug sitting near the sparkplug hole. If you smell gas then the cylinders may be full and when you crank the bike over it will spray out of the hole. If it hits the plug while sparking you will get a big surprise. Just like I did when I was 16 and checking for spark on my Kawi 125 dirt bike. Was looking straight into the hole at the time
So you have checked the red coil wire and it is good. This means that the problem ( if there is no spark at the plug) is related to the wiring circuit of the other side of the coil. This starts at the grey wire of the key switch and like I said, on my bike it registers 5.7 volts. It may be "possible" that if that wire had 12volts during your key swapping that it may have burnt out your ECU box. This circuit is the complicated one that signals when the spark happens. There are tests in the tech manual for this but are a bit more than i can relay to you. I would concentrate on getting 5.7 volts at that grey wire. I believe this is what that tiny resistor in the OEM switch was for.
Good Luck.........Rob
Posted by greenbarn
- April 22, 2019, 23:01:44 PMSorry, I didn't realize the original switch was broken.... that makes it even harder for you.
Posted by Tfrank59
- April 18, 2019, 10:18:21 AMSo Mitt, in my simplistic brain I would say, just for now at least bypass the switch--hotwire the bike in effect--to ensure that you have spark and the bike will run. Then go from there on a workaround if you don't want to spend that $170. Maybe it's not that simple I don't know, but just my 1.5 cents.
Posted by mittico68
- April 18, 2019, 01:55:50 AMQuote from: greenbarn on April 17, 2019, 21:28:03 PMI figured all along that you DIDN't have spark, from what was going on. I'm guessing you don't (but you'll know when you check).
My suggestion is (assuming you don't have spark) to start over with the stock switch to see if it will run that way. That tells you if it's just the ignition switch install issue (which I'm guessing it probably is) or something else that happened by coincidence (which believe it or not, happens all the time).
You know what?
I thought to use the stock switch, as you suggest, BUT it's definitively broken so I need to buy a new one, and it will cost me 170 bucks!
That's why I'm tryin' to solve the problem differently.
I'll check that spark out and will report.
Posted by greenbarn
- April 17, 2019, 21:28:03 PMI figured all along that you DIDN't have spark, from what was going on. I'm guessing you don't (but you'll know when you check).
My suggestion is (assuming you don't have spark) to start over with the stock switch to see if it will run that way. That tells you if it's just the ignition switch install issue (which I'm guessing it probably is) or something else that happened by coincidence (which believe it or not, happens all the time).
Posted by Tfrank59
- April 17, 2019, 11:00:46 AMI actually thought you had done this and made sure your coils were okay. Let us know what you learn.