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Posted by mittico68
- April 01, 2019, 01:33:31 AMQuote from: rob f on March 31, 2019, 09:17:52 AMAre you familiar with Dc volts and continuity testing? Basically we will test the HD switch to see if it has continuity across the terminals and then we will test for voltage at the wires at different locations. If you have the wiring diagram I sent you, it will help a lot. Looking at the whole diagram seems a little scary so what I sometimes do is , clear my mind, get a copy of the diagram and then with a colored pencil trace each separate circuit with a different color. If you start tracing from the switch harness right down to the battery it will start making more sense in your head as you follow the wires on the page. Just focus on one circuit at a time.
I must go now and will check in tomorrow.
I've got a volt meter and I've tested each and every connection for 12v continuity: everything was ok, with the HD switch in the IGN position and the OEM kill switch ON, too.
I've also got the 800 OEM Service Manual, and I'll do as you suggested for the colored diagrams.
So now, all I need is your kind HELP! 
Posted by Troll
- March 31, 2019, 21:27:36 PMHere's a couple of wiring diagrams. Just a silly question, but the kill switch is in the on position, right?
Posted by Tfrank59
- March 31, 2019, 20:43:14 PMQuote from: mittico68 on March 30, 2019, 13:21:25 PMThis really isn't my area so I'm just going to have to sit back and let Rob and others help you. Keep us posted though.Bad news.
After double checking all the connections of the whole damn thing, I've tried to fire up the engine.
No way, it doesn't start.
I've even bypassed the resistor, resultless...
And, if ever it is enough, I've also noticed that even the brake light doesn't work!
So, am I at a dead end?
I don't wanna give up, but I really need your help.
Posted by rob f
- March 31, 2019, 09:17:52 AMI"ll try to help you out Mitt but only have a little time this morning.
I think that you said that you went out and bought a volt meter. We will need one. Does it have an Ohm scale? Are you familiar with Dc volts and continuity testing? Basically we will test the HD switch to see if it has continuity across the terminals and then we will test for voltage at the wires at different locations. If you have the wiring diagram I sent you, it will help a lot. Looking at the whole diagram seems a little scary so what I sometimes do is , clear my mind, get a copy of the diagram and then with a colored pencil trace each separate circuit with a different color. If you start tracing from the switch harness right down to the battery it will start making more sense in your head as you follow the wires on the page. Just focus on one circuit at a time.
I must go now and will check in tomorrow.
Posted by mittico68
- March 30, 2019, 13:21:25 PMBad news.
After double checking all the connections of the whole damn thing, I've tried to fire up the engine.
No way, it doesn't start.
I've even bypassed the resistor, resultless...
And, if ever it is enough, I've also noticed that even the brake light doesn't work!
So, am I at a dead end? 
I don't wanna give up, but I really need your help.
Posted by mittico68
- March 29, 2019, 02:34:46 AMGot it.
I'll try and see what happens...
Posted by Troll
- March 28, 2019, 16:17:29 PMcan't hurt to bypass it and try. The idea of the resistor is to send a specific voltage to the "unused" port on the injection ECM that verifies that the ign. switch hasn't been bypassed.
Posted by mittico68
- March 28, 2019, 11:21:49 AMQuote from: Troll on March 28, 2019, 07:47:30 AMThe resistor is for the fuel injected models...can't see why you would need it at all on a carbed model
Never thought about it... 
That said, I also remember that the OEM ignition switch has got a resistor soldered inside, on the gray wire...
So, do you think it could affect the whole thing?
Posted by Troll
- March 28, 2019, 07:47:30 AMThe resistor is for the fuel injected models...can't see why you would need it at all on a carbed model
Posted by rob f
- March 25, 2019, 07:47:51 AMFirst thing that I would do, is if you have a spare set of plugs, pull the sparkplug wires, hook in the spare plugs, ground the spark plug body to a good ground and then crank it over. This will tell you if they are getting spark or not and take the guessing out of it. Could be fuel related.
Greenbarn is correct about the crimpon connectors. Soldering is the best , but untill you get it working properly, the crimpon is at least reversible. Soldering not so much. However, I have run into 3 way crimpons a lot on farm equipment and most of them were fine. Di-electrical grease and tape also helps.
Posted by mittico68
- March 25, 2019, 02:37:36 AMYou're right, GB. That's the gray wire...
About the resistor: I'll take a closer look at it, asap, just to be sure that is a 100 ohm one.
About connections: I'm not very experienced at it, but I've soldered the extensions of the Kawi harness connector wires and they look pretty good and strong. Next thing actually to do, test them... 
Then I've used the quick-crimp connectors for the red/blu connection and the gray/brown too. I understand that now I must test them too...
And here's the wiring diagram of mine.
Posted by greenbarn
- March 24, 2019, 20:17:13 PMI have not done this mod, or really looked at my ignition switch- so in the dark a little here. But, there are a couple of basics.
You said in your last post, the brown wire goes to the ignitor -- It looks to me from the diagram that it's the gray wire that should have the resistor and is going to the ignitor. Do you have this on the gray or the brown wire?
Are you sure your resistor is correct? It will have to be pretty close to work- I read somewhere a few years ago, this is a theft feature, I think.
How are you making your connections? Are you experienced at wiring? Do you know for sure the connections are good, either from visually being able to see (based on how you did them), or testing them?? Personally, I don't recommend the quick-crimp connectors. I've seen many many failures from these - you can't see for sure they have a positive connection, and they are prone to coming loose, corrosion, and a mess of failures. Solder and heat-shrink, or heat-shrink crimp connectors - either if done correctly are reliable.
Can you draw up a wiring diagram of what you have done??
Posted by mittico68
- March 24, 2019, 14:07:27 PMNew update.
I ended the h-d switch job and tried both the solutions: as I thought, the only way to have the tail & city lights workin' is to connect the red wire to the blu wire. And it works!
So, the good news is that when I turn the h-d switch to the IGN position (see the Thunder switch graphic), both the tail & city lights are on. And if I hit the brake (front or rear), its light goes on too.
Now, the BAD news...
After turning the h-d switch to the IGN position, I tryed to start the engine but it's been a failure.
I mean, the igniter goes on but the engine doesn't start to run!
So, could it be because of the spark plugs receiving no impulse at all?
As far as I can understand from the Kawi wiring diagram, the brown wire (ignition) goes straight to the IC Igniter and this feeds the ignition coils & spark plugs. So, could it be because the h-d switch needs the brown wire to be connected to the gray wire, this generates the malfunction? 
Awaitin' for all your suggestions...
Posted by Tfrank59
- March 22, 2019, 21:25:16 PMWow electrical can be such a can o' worms!! Good luck and keep us posted.
Posted by mittico68
- March 21, 2019, 09:37:36 AMThanx again Rob, for all your kind infos and how to's!
I had already cut the wires of the Kawi switch (very close to it) and added the ohm resistor to its gray wire...
Now I must complete the job, by connecting the brown and the gray wires and solder them together.
BTW, the HD switch of my own has got no wires at all: so, I have to wire it to the Kawi harness connector.
I thought to try first the "brake light only" version of the Whole thing: so, I'll connect just the blu wire by itself and see what happens, once the engine is runnig (I hope!).
Then, if (as I think) the tail light won't work, I'll try the "brake + tail light" version: I'll splice the red wire to the blue wire (with the Whole thing off of the bike...) and see what happens.
I will report the results, asap.
Cross fingers!