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Posted by Tfrank59
- November 11, 2018, 09:25:20 AMCDD thanks for your replies. Hope we can bother you a little more since you are now the experienced one on this. to get the shims out did you have to partially remove the cam? As I recall with my KTM there were two ways to attack it -- that was one, and I can't remember the other. My KTM had very critical specs as it was a racing engine and I recall checking the valves a few times (every 15 hours) and letting it go when it was just .001" out of spec. 
. Also, what was your source for replacement shims, a Kawasaki dealer? Thanks again.
Posted by CARPE DIEM DRIFTER
- November 11, 2018, 09:13:06 AMTfrank59, I had not considered the exhaust valves seating harder than the intake valves. Good point. My take is that the spec is in thousandths of an inch, which seems minuscule, but can mean a lot in performance and longevity of an engine. I enjoy working on and getting to know my Drifter as much as riding her.
greenbarn, I know that it took me several leisurely hours but I am also a slow and methodical person when it comes to mechanics. My best advice is to tuck some clean shop rags into the open engine cavities below the rocker arms before you remove the rocker arms. The shims are oil sticky one moment and slippery as can be the next. This was one of the best tips I had gotten before I started the valve adjustment project.
Posted by Tfrank59
- November 11, 2018, 08:37:06 AMCDD, I think the way it works on exhaust valves is not that they stretch but at they Hammer themselves into the seats and therefore decrease clearance. But yours is a good point that when clearance is lessening it's not going to make an increasing ticking noise, it'll probably make less.
Posted by greenbarn
- November 11, 2018, 08:02:28 AMLike many of the rest of you, I have never checked mine either. It's still "on my list" (has been for a couple years now). From what I remember Ratman saying it isnt' so hard that it should be a daunting task- just one more thing on the list that hasn't made it above the line yet.
Do you remember how long it took you CDD? to take of the covers and check the clearance? Seems like a couple hours is what Ratman told, but can't remember for sure.
Posted by Tfrank59
- November 10, 2018, 23:16:19 PMThanks for that feedback. I'm not crazy about the idea of shims either buying them or replacing them, but are you saying for one thou out of spec you went ahead and changed shims? I guess you're hearing from my lazy side.
Posted by CARPE DIEM DRIFTER
- November 10, 2018, 23:01:37 PMI checked and adjusted valve clearances on my 800 Drifter at 5000 miles. All were out of spec by a thousandth or two from the + or - allowable gap. Here is the interesting part, intake valve gaps were wide while exhaust valve gaps were tight. I assume that the exhaust valve stems must have stretched. A tighter than spec valve gap will not give you a tic or rattle indication that adjustment is needed. Our 800 engines are almost bullet proof, but I am a big fan of preventive maintenance. Peace of mind has value. My 2 cents. Happy Drifting, CDD
Posted by Gregpaulc
- November 10, 2018, 21:39:52 PMI am wondering the same thing. I've got 15 thousand on my 2000 800 drifter. I bought it with 11 thousand. I've always heard a lil ticking in motor.
Posted by Tfrank59
- November 10, 2018, 14:21:37 PMI have a confession to make--I have never checked my valves. If Ratman was still around he would ream me good. I got almost 20,000 on the bike that I put on it so I'm coming up on 24000. The funny thing is I don't really hear any noise from the valve train, some very light ticking noise but that's always been there. Please advise. Do I have to get in there and check it or can I let it slide say another year?