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Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 09, 2018, 10:46:29 AMI have the drilled rotor from a 2000 Vulcan Classic 800 on my Drifter, the rotors are interchangeable, not sure of the calipers. Also check the seals on your calipers at this time......
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 09, 2018, 09:36:25 AMQuote from: CDNRatMan on February 08, 2018, 23:14:01 PMI used wet sandpaper to do a final cleaning on the pistons. Did an awesome job and they looked brand new. Time to also replace the 2 seals in the or 4 seals in the calipers.
Good Idea, I was using the Dremel for the caliper housing. Looked like it had minor pitting. But I'll do as you suggested for the pistons themselves. One of the difference between a Vulcan 800 and the Drifter 800 is the breaks. The front is infact disc on both, but they are not interchangeable. I belive this is do to the forks being different. Also they added a second piston on the Drifter which is good, more stoping power.
The aft breaks change from a drum break to a disc break which I look forward too.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 08, 2018, 23:14:01 PMI used wet sandpaper to do a final cleaning on the pistons. Did an awesome job and they looked brand new. Time to also replace the 2 seals in the or 4 seals in the calipers.
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 08, 2018, 21:49:37 PMThe front caliper has seen better days I had to take sone pliers and yank the pistons out. Definitely signs of old break fluid and some rust. In the process of cleaning with break cleaner and a wire brush. Dremel for the win.
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 08, 2018, 19:40:11 PMOk so today at work I wasn't too busy and decided to print a parts catalog so I can see what I need and how much parts cost. Also I ordered two break caliper rebuild kits, one for the front and one for the back. So far taking it apart wasn't too bad. I actuated the break pedal and the Pistons came out. Probably helps to open the break fluid reservoir to prevent back pressure and that way they should come out easily.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 08, 2018, 11:51:20 AMWell I had 2 Q tanks also, and forgot my 10 gal fiddler crab tank and a 20 gal ghost shrimp tank that I raised ghost shrimp and used as feeders.......was pretty cool....
Yes not a good idea to use the rear fender to put things on. Once you get the bike on the road, or if you can find someone with a 800 have them ride in front of you so you can see the inchworm effect of the rear fender. Think it was someone on here who described the look of a Drifter 800 going down the highway on a bumpy section looked like an inchworm going down the road. Funny to say but it is as close to the look of it that you can get....lol.....soon I'll be at your point in time....
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 08, 2018, 06:50:04 AMOh wow you had some big tanks! That tank is going to be a quarantine tank for Discus I don't have yet. The discus tank is a 75 Gal that is cycling. And I have a 55 with rainbow fish and an assortment of community fish. Also a desk aquarium with some cardinal tetras.
Good to know on the lock tight differences. Now that the tools are back in place and and the parts laid out I can go through them and see what's good and what needs replaced while I wait on my frame and swing arm. Going to have to sand the gas tank to repair a small dent and ordered some plastic hole fill to plug some holes on the rear fender that someone decided they needed a little rack to hold something.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 08, 2018, 02:26:43 AMwhat type of fish tank? I sold all mine, I had a 110 gal Diamond Corner Tank with Severums and Blood Parrots, a 150 gal with a colony of Frontosa and gold head comps, then a 90 gal with Discus, a 75 gal long with Columbian sharks in brackish water.
ok on the bike use Red thread lock on parts you do not want to come apart, but you can heat them with a hot air gun to loosen them, and blue for other parts and with the blue just a drop or so on the threads. Can not use safety wire on your sprocket...lol....pretty sure you should have seen some sign of the thread lock on the bolts.
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 07, 2018, 22:10:13 PMQuote from: CDNRatMan on February 07, 2018, 21:42:06 PM
Sure you know all this but just to jog your mind once more, clean off all the old thread lock from parts, on the sprocket use "RED" thread lock and you can use lots....lol.......this is the best time to clean and check parts for any wear and tear. But you know all this and so I am just flapping my gums to hear my typing....lol......
I am still waiting for parts from powder coating and the rear shock from the dealer, the tins.........
Thanks Ratman, I actually didn't know to use the "Red" thread lock. in aviation we really don't use it, we do use safety wire though. Got more room/surface space to work in now after I did some rearranging of old parts I'm planning to get rid of once the build is done. Even set up a fish tank lol. That's my other hobby...
Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 07, 2018, 21:42:06 PM Sure you know all this but just to jog your mind once more, clean off all the old thread lock from parts, on the sprocket use "RED" thread lock and you can use lots....lol.......this is the best time to clean and check parts for any wear and tear. But you know all this and so I am just flapping my gums to hear my typing....lol......
I am still waiting for parts from powder coating and the rear shock from the dealer, the tins.........
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 07, 2018, 20:23:53 PMQuote from: Vulcanpunch on February 07, 2018, 20:23:01 PMAwesome, thanks for the tip. I'm waiting on some bearings to get in and some lock tight to install the 38 rear sprocket. In the mean time doing some parts inventory and cleaning.
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 07, 2018, 20:23:01 PMQuote from: CDNRatMan on February 07, 2018, 19:59:18 PMYes should have mentioned that to you......lol.....glad it came off easy enough. One more thing, do not use any lub on your dampener, now with the powder coating in that area it also might be a tad snug but that is fine, just tap the rubber parts in place then again with a rubber mallet tap the hub back into place.
Awesome, thanks for the tip. I'm waiting on some bearings to get in and some lock tight to install the 38 rear sprocket. In the mean time doing some parts inventory and cleaning.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 07, 2018, 19:59:18 PMYes should have mentioned that to you......lol.....glad it came off easy enough. One more thing, do not use any lub on your dampener, now with the powder coating in that area it also might be a tad snug but that is fine, just tap the rubber parts in place then again with a rubber mallet tap the hub back into place.
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 07, 2018, 19:30:04 PMBearing race cleaned. Finished off with a sanding block so to not damage the race.
Posted by Vulcanpunch
- February 07, 2018, 19:15:58 PMA Dremel seems to do the trick nicely for removing the powder coating