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So sad about the cousin, my ex had been scared by someone when she was young while out riding and she did not trust or like bikes. My dad also never understood my love for riding from an early age. Then after I joined the military he said "whatever" .......so we all have life choices to make. I am going to keep both 800's for now, no desire for a 1500 yet, but that could change. If and when I win the big lottery I'll start a Drifter collection in ernest........
well...I just found that my decision may be out of my hands....my wife's cousin in Phoenix was just killed last night on his Harley.....He was a great guy and we were good friends....my wife is pretty upset about it and has already started with the second-guessing on my having one (or two)....
Mmmmh, it's quite the same for me: I've been ridin' since I was 18 and got my first cruiser at 21 (a 650cc Suzuki savage); my wife just doesn't understand, even though she tells that she likes to go ridin' with me! 
LOL...that's my desire, but not sure it's worth the grief! I grew up riding...my wife didn't...and she just DOESN'T UNDERSTAND...she thinks there is something wrong with me
. My grandfather raced sidecar motocross in Germany and owned a BSA Motorcycle store/shop, so it must be in my blood.....I started riding at 12 and raced MX until I was 17...got my first roadbike at 18 and off I went....My wife has ridden with me a total of 3 times in over 32 years of marriage, so obviously she just is not going to get it....
Quote from: OR Seedman on January 06, 2018, 08:40:30 AMI really need to get a good feel for the bike so I can make an "informed" decision as to which one I want to keep...
Maybe we can take a poll....
I guess you already know the answer: KEEP BOTH! 
I have a tan one that goes with the other seat....but it is curved to match a fender....the rack is definitely strong enough to hold even my weight (240lb), so it would work in a pinch...there is a vendor on ebay that sells some flat tan leather rear pillions for Royal Enfields that might work, but I really don't have anyone to put back there (my wife WILL NOT ride) so not much point to it for me.....
I am really looking forward to some good spring weather so that I can take it out and put some real miles (or kilometers) on it, instead of just going around the local back roads a little bit. (not licensed yet..no plates). I really need to get a good feel for the bike so I can make an "informed" decision as to which one I want to keep...
Maybe we can take a poll....
Great looking bike!
You could even add a pillion seat over that rear rack, since that she's got foldable passenger footpegs too!
updated pics with new Saddleline Leather Seat Cover for the oem seat. Also added chromed heavy duty rear rack with my Indian style backrest. 3/4" memory foam layered on top of the stock seat foam makes for a very soft seat... 
The leather is really soft and supple, but not thin....good value for $95
new rack design for the 1500 (works really well with the classic style seat). Has gone in for chroming.....has adjustable tilt, pre-drilled for backrest mount...will post pics when I get it back from the chrome shop, too.
Thanks for the info. Will undoubtedly help someone out.
must be....there was absolutely no way to clear the bottom of the frame to remove the 2 lowest sitting casing bolts on this one.....I was lifting the entire rear of the bike up with the rear head against the frame well before the bolts would clear...
Quote from: OR Seedman on November 17, 2017, 16:01:10 PMtotal time is difficult to calculate....I was working on it between doing things on the research farm....I would say that if I focused on just doing the bearing, total time would have been about 4 hrs....I did try the trick of removing the rear engine mounts and lifting up the back of the engine to clear the frame with the lower bolts on the casing (like you see on youtube), but that doesn't work with a Drifter...not enough clearance above the rear cylinder head to the frame....so I had to crack the frame and move the engine a little bit sideways....but I did not have to completely take it out....just drained and disconnect the radiator, drained the oil, disconnected the drive shaft (checked it for tightness...all good there), pulled off the rectifier, rear fender and wheel, rear diff for the shaft drive (so I could slide the shaft off of the front gear as it is spring loaded at the rear differential which forces it forward) and the seat and tank...really not that complicated...
I bought the new bearing through Global Industries (have an account with them) it is a 62mm outer diameter with 25mm inner shaft diameter x 17mm thick...open bearings (no seal), running in an oil-bath (not greased). I bought a BL HD bearing with higher specs (increased max rpm of 13,000 vs 10,000 and tighter tolerances). cost was $4.84 plus shipping, but since I had other bearings for machinery in the order as well, the shipping is negligible (shipping total was $5.95..order was over $80). The casing gasket was bought off of ebay for $4.00 with free shipping....
I probably spent an additional 6-8 hours cleaning it up, fixing small nit-noid things and painting....not really a whole lot of time....always in between my research work....the biggest pain in the butt was that I forgot to put the tow plastic panels back on in front of the tank....Had everything put back together and then realized I had to lift the tank up to get to the push tab holes to re-mount them...DOH! Live and learn, I guess....
That's funny, I did mine without removing the frame rail...but mine is an R model, the frame is a bit different
link to bearing page:
total time is difficult to calculate....I was working on it between doing things on the research farm....I would say that if I focused on just doing the bearing, total time would have been about 4 hrs....I did try the trick of removing the rear engine mounts and lifting up the back of the engine to clear the frame with the lower bolts on the casing (like you see on youtube), but that doesn't work with a Drifter...not enough clearance above the rear cylinder head to the frame....so I had to crack the frame and move the engine a little bit sideways....but I did not have to completely take it out....just drained and disconnect the radiator, drained the oil, disconnected the drive shaft (checked it for tightness...all good there), pulled off the rectifier, rear fender and wheel, rear diff for the shaft drive (so I could slide the shaft off of the front gear as it is spring loaded at the rear differential which forces it forward) and the seat and tank...really not that complicated...
I bought the new bearing through Global Industries (have an account with them) it is a 62mm outer diameter with 25mm inner shaft diameter x 17mm thick...open bearings (no seal), running in an oil-bath (not greased). I bought a BL HD bearing with higher specs (increased max rpm of 13,000 vs 10,000 and tighter tolerances). cost was $4.84 plus shipping, but since I had other bearings for machinery in the order as well, the shipping is negligible (shipping total was $5.95..order was over $80). The casing gasket was bought off of ebay for $4.00 with free shipping....
I probably spent an additional 6-8 hours cleaning it up, fixing small nit-noid things and painting....not really a whole lot of time....always in between my research work....the biggest pain in the butt was that I forgot to put the tow plastic panels back on in front of the tank....Had everything put back together and then realized I had to lift the tank up to get to the push tab holes to re-mount them...DOH! Live and learn, I guess.... 
OR :
Great looking bike, and what a deal!! Of course you had some sweat equity in the equation too -- time is money. How many hours was the bevel gear bearing for you?? Would you be so kind as to share the bearing information for us??
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