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Posted by drifter-paul
- August 27, 2017, 06:35:48 AMYeah thank you, Greenbarn, for the cheaper option, but
looking at the manual/s (I do understand the theory), considering how much 'purchase on the inside race' I had on the triple tree bearings, I was not EVER going thru that again.
For $4 US per wheel/2 minutes-6 bangs, and no chance of damaging the surround on exit, I would recommend this method as a bargain for the wheel bearings.
Now, I just gotta find supplier of massive Anchor bolts, for next time I change steering bearings !!! 
Posted by greenbarn
- August 26, 2017, 21:18:08 PMOn the wheel bearing, you can also skip the trouble of going to find the appropriate sized anchor. Just a large long tapered drift punch will reach from the opposite side and you can get enough purchase on the inside race of the bearing to knock it out.
Posted by drifter-paul
- August 04, 2017, 03:26:24 AMRockinRollin,
Wow, vibration analysis, that blows me away. There is just so much technology and we rarely get to see/hear of the ingenuity that runs our world - unless it is in our own little sphere.
I live, and I'm still not too old to learn. Good stuff.
Posted by RockinRollin
- August 03, 2017, 20:40:10 PMYes I should have, 
under the bearing surface spalling will occur that is not always visible. We cut them open after vibration analysis shows the start of bearing failure in the vibration signature. When we don't see an obvious cause for bearing defect frequencies we ship them off to a lab who checks them under a microscope and looks for damage below the surface, it helps improve our predictive maintenance program.
Posted by drifter-paul
- July 29, 2017, 05:57:31 AMshould have sent them to him/her before you cut then open !!!! 
Posted by RockinRollin
- July 24, 2017, 08:46:43 AMBearings may not always feel like there is a problem when you turn them by hand. Sometimes they are only an issue at high speeds under load but keep using them and they will eventually fail. I have cut open bearings that were flagged as defective only to see nothing and then sent them to a bearing specialist ( SKF) who condemned them as defective.
Posted by --Jerry S--
- July 22, 2017, 21:27:41 PMWill keep for future. Thx
Posted by drifter-paul
- July 22, 2017, 20:07:42 PMIMPORTANT to know.
Fitted the front wheel bearings and new left side seal (right side seal is in speedo drive pod, hence, doesn't need to be removed).
Interestingly, when I spun the old bearing by inserting my finger to detect wear (like I do when putting a new tyre on) there was none detectable.
BUT, give the bearing a shake and you can hear a rattle.
Posted by RockinRollin
- July 06, 2017, 15:04:33 PMThat's what I used when I swapped mine out. Works great and only cost a few bucks.
Posted by drifter-paul
- July 05, 2017, 21:33:24 PMAm about to change wheel bearings, and found this handy/cheap method on youtube. Copy and paste the address below into your search field, there is also a link down the bottom right of the video to get a longer version.
It uses a 20mm Anchor bolt (masonry plug/rawplug) 120mm long - you can see similar in the video - not sure what you call them.
I tested it first on an old bearing , a mate had lying around. At first I thought the video man must have used an Imperial 3/4 inch. The bearing i.d. is 19.97 mm on my vernier and the mushroom head of the bolt slides in with a little leeway. The expanding collar wouldn't fit thru by hand, but a few taps with a wooden mallet and it slipped in. My bolt is by Ramset and has two collars. I removed the plain nut-end collar to get room to hold the bolt by the thread while tightening the nut. 
Had problems trying to put the link here. So amend the following - youtube.com/watch?v=t7VQnNfqJtA