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Posted by Aimee.L
- July 15, 2017, 20:00:33 PMSo redid my valves and yup they went right back to where they were! 
Sure wish someone would do a video on getting the rear cover out without scratching it 
oh well I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually. Also cleaned and oiled my filter.
Tonight I'm going to fill her up and add the seafoam then going for a descent ride tomorrow and we'll see if the seafoam did the trick.
Again I really appreciate everyone's help and patience through my lurking curve dopey moments 
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 19:21:49 PMOk thanks. That was the plan, redo valve clearance and then revisit the stalling issue. Every cent appreciated 
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 13, 2017, 19:14:55 PMWell you took a detour with the valve clearance setting. Once you get that back where it should be return to the stalling out problem which if it's not gas tank venting then it might be your petcock because it's suspicious if it only wants to run on reserve and you have a half a tank. Just my 1.5 cents.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 18:04:00 PMMy poor baby! Lol I immediately knew it didn't sound right
Otherwise then making sure hoses are tight and not kinked what else could or should I check for a venting problem?
Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 17:57:06 PMWell, that will sure make a difference! I still thing you have a venting problem. Gravity feed systems are susceptible to that...
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 17:05:19 PMHOLD THE PRESS I FIGURED MY VALVE ISSUE OUT!. I decided to slowly read through the instructions I have to make sure I didn't miss anything yesterday and realised I measured in freaking inches not mm! What a dummy 
so hopefully Saturday I'll be fixing that. Then I'll finally get to run the seafoam and see where I'm at.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 15:50:35 PMI kept the original shims but did not write the shim and clearances down. I will next time. I did set them to have resistance on the feeler but I don't think I would call it drag so maybe I did read them looser then they actually were. I was just concerned that say for example on intake if i had noticeable drag at 0.10 and by 0.12 or 0.13 couldn't fit the feeler in there at all, that would be considered too tight?
With the fuel valve, I had thought I had a bad petcock because my original problems with stalling as well as when I started it up after doing the valve check were all when the petcock was in the on position. All 3 situations seemed to improve when I would switch to reserve and all 3 times there were no less then 1/3 of a tank usually closer to a half tank full.
Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 15:30:17 PMdid you write down which valves had which clearance and which shims? Notes can be a real life saver. As much as it sounds like a lot of work, I would go over your adjustments again. I think you set them all too loose. Exhaust vales generally run a bit looser clearance because they run hot. Loose valves not only sound bad, but the invite valve head tuliping. It's your first time doing it, so when you get more experience, you will be better at it. There should be a noticeable drag drag on the feeler gauge when you are correct. If it slides in and out easily, you are too loose. It takes practice. Why are you blaming the fuel valve?
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 14:18:44 PMThat's what I was thinking. After looking through online a lot of people say the tinny sound is usually from too loose valves. Didnt drain the tank, there was about 1/3 of a tank but I think that might tie back to probably needing to replace the petcock. My biggest concern is if I get down to the lowest clearance allowed and it still does it. My only options from there are leave it or go outside of spec back to where it was. It sounded and ran perfectly with the much thicker shims in it before with the exception of the petcock that I need to replace.
Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 13:53:27 PMStill sounds like they are set a little on the loose side. The noise you hear is NOT what most people think. It's not the rocker arm slapping the top of the valve stem, but rather the valve slapping the valve seat as it returns that last couple of thousandths. Possible that the change in valve clearance caused the idle speed to increase, but what concerns me more is having to run the fuel valve in a different position, unless you drained and didn't refill the tank....
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 08:49:40 AMI also checked that every shim put the clearance near center of the tolerance. I would run through the thinnest to the thickest feelers for the tolerance range and make sure that the thinnest would move pretty easily with barely any drag working through to the thickest I wouldn't be able to get in or it would be really hard.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 08:37:42 AMI was careful to make sure any disconnected hoses were put back all the way on, but I will try to double check them next time we catch a break from this rain. Every shim need to be at least 2-3 shim sizes thinner. I triple and quadruple checked the clearance after changing the shims because I was concerned about the measurements i was getting from the original shims if I could even get a measurement. Some I couldn't even get my smallest 0.005 feeler gauge in there.
Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 07:47:06 AMARE YOU SURE YOU GOT ALL YOUR VACUUM LINES CONNECTED? DID YOU INCREASE THE VALVE CLEARANCE? IT SHOULD NOT TICK AFTER YOU ARE DONE, UNLESS YOU LISTEN REALLY CAREFULLY. Sounds like you went to the high side of tolerance with your adjustment.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 12, 2017, 22:17:38 PMThat's what I'm thinking/hoping. I tend to have crappy luck though lol.
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 12, 2017, 22:13:05 PMSo probably the stalling problem was the petcock to begin with? Might want to look at getting a petcock rebuild kit