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Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 15:30:17 PMdid you write down which valves had which clearance and which shims? Notes can be a real life saver. As much as it sounds like a lot of work, I would go over your adjustments again. I think you set them all too loose. Exhaust vales generally run a bit looser clearance because they run hot. Loose valves not only sound bad, but the invite valve head tuliping. It's your first time doing it, so when you get more experience, you will be better at it. There should be a noticeable drag drag on the feeler gauge when you are correct. If it slides in and out easily, you are too loose. It takes practice. Why are you blaming the fuel valve?
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 14:18:44 PMThat's what I was thinking. After looking through online a lot of people say the tinny sound is usually from too loose valves. Didnt drain the tank, there was about 1/3 of a tank but I think that might tie back to probably needing to replace the petcock. My biggest concern is if I get down to the lowest clearance allowed and it still does it. My only options from there are leave it or go outside of spec back to where it was. It sounded and ran perfectly with the much thicker shims in it before with the exception of the petcock that I need to replace.
Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 13:53:27 PMStill sounds like they are set a little on the loose side. The noise you hear is NOT what most people think. It's not the rocker arm slapping the top of the valve stem, but rather the valve slapping the valve seat as it returns that last couple of thousandths. Possible that the change in valve clearance caused the idle speed to increase, but what concerns me more is having to run the fuel valve in a different position, unless you drained and didn't refill the tank....
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 08:49:40 AMI also checked that every shim put the clearance near center of the tolerance. I would run through the thinnest to the thickest feelers for the tolerance range and make sure that the thinnest would move pretty easily with barely any drag working through to the thickest I wouldn't be able to get in or it would be really hard.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 13, 2017, 08:37:42 AMI was careful to make sure any disconnected hoses were put back all the way on, but I will try to double check them next time we catch a break from this rain. Every shim need to be at least 2-3 shim sizes thinner. I triple and quadruple checked the clearance after changing the shims because I was concerned about the measurements i was getting from the original shims if I could even get a measurement. Some I couldn't even get my smallest 0.005 feeler gauge in there.
Posted by Troll
- July 13, 2017, 07:47:06 AMARE YOU SURE YOU GOT ALL YOUR VACUUM LINES CONNECTED? DID YOU INCREASE THE VALVE CLEARANCE? IT SHOULD NOT TICK AFTER YOU ARE DONE, UNLESS YOU LISTEN REALLY CAREFULLY. Sounds like you went to the high side of tolerance with your adjustment.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 12, 2017, 22:17:38 PMThat's what I'm thinking/hoping. I tend to have crappy luck though lol.
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 12, 2017, 22:13:05 PMSo probably the stalling problem was the petcock to begin with? Might want to look at getting a petcock rebuild kit
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 12, 2017, 21:54:23 PMEnded up getting my valve clearance check and adjustment done. The petcock seemed ok but the bike now won't stay running with the petcock in the on position but will in reserve. Couple of odd things after the valve adjustment. My idle was a little bit higher, of course it could just be I hit it while doing every thing else. The second did thing is the valve clearances were quite a bit out and after adjusting them the motor now sounds kind of tinney to me now. I explained it to my husband as it used to sound like little galloping ponies and now sounds like sprinting tap dancers, lol 
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 12, 2017, 13:10:35 PMAny suggestions on this rear cover? I've tried every direction and can not clear the chain.
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 12, 2017, 10:01:03 AMNevermind got it YAY!!! Thank you soooooo much!
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 12, 2017, 09:57:51 AMwhat's the best way to greet the tube to stay down without damaging anything. I think that's what I'm stuck on now.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- July 12, 2017, 09:17:28 AMOk valve check is fairly simple, the hardest part is removing the cover on the rear cylinder, just have to be patient and slowly ease it and wiggle it out. Hardest part is if the spark plug tube stays with the valve cover it should remain down. At the time doing the valve check would like you figure a great time to check out the tank and all the hoses and lines to be sure they are kink free and not pinched anyplace. You can also check all your grounds under the tank and wiring. Have fun and enjoy tinkering.....
Posted by Aimee.L
- July 11, 2017, 23:03:22 PMI was glad to see 2 stores in town carry it here.
Update : tomorrow I'm gonna take a whack at doing my valve check, also grabbed new plugs and a new K&N filter. At the same time I'll check my petcock and get to see what the current air filter looks like. Once it's done I'm gonna add the seafoam to the gas tank and see if that helps. I'll add seafoam to the oil when I'm due for an oil change. I'll see where that gets me and reupdate.
Posted by UGLY
- July 11, 2017, 22:03:30 PMGood to see Seafoam. We finally got it in Canada.