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I was careful to make sure any disconnected hoses were put back all the way on, but I will try to double check them next time we catch a break from this rain. Every shim need to be at least 2-3 shim sizes thinner. I triple and quadruple checked the clearance after changing the shims because I was concerned about the measurements i was getting from the original shims if I could even get a measurement. Some I couldn't even get my smallest 0.005 feeler gauge in there.
ARE YOU SURE YOU GOT ALL YOUR VACUUM LINES CONNECTED? DID YOU INCREASE THE VALVE CLEARANCE? IT SHOULD NOT TICK AFTER YOU ARE DONE, UNLESS YOU LISTEN REALLY CAREFULLY. Sounds like you went to the high side of tolerance with your adjustment.
That's what I'm thinking/hoping. I tend to have crappy luck though lol.
So probably the stalling problem was the petcock to begin with? Might want to look at getting a petcock rebuild kit
Ended up getting my valve clearance check and adjustment done. The petcock seemed ok but the bike now won't stay running with the petcock in the on position but will in reserve. Couple of odd things after the valve adjustment. My idle was a little bit higher, of course it could just be I hit it while doing every thing else. The second did thing is the valve clearances were quite a bit out and after adjusting them the motor now sounds kind of tinney to me now. I explained it to my husband as it used to sound like little galloping ponies and now sounds like sprinting tap dancers, lol 
Any suggestions on this rear cover? I've tried every direction and can not clear the chain.
Nevermind got it YAY!!! Thank you soooooo much!
what's the best way to greet the tube to stay down without damaging anything. I think that's what I'm stuck on now.
Ok valve check is fairly simple, the hardest part is removing the cover on the rear cylinder, just have to be patient and slowly ease it and wiggle it out. Hardest part is if the spark plug tube stays with the valve cover it should remain down. At the time doing the valve check would like you figure a great time to check out the tank and all the hoses and lines to be sure they are kink free and not pinched anyplace. You can also check all your grounds under the tank and wiring. Have fun and enjoy tinkering.....
I was glad to see 2 stores in town carry it here.
Update : tomorrow I'm gonna take a whack at doing my valve check, also grabbed new plugs and a new K&N filter. At the same time I'll check my petcock and get to see what the current air filter looks like. Once it's done I'm gonna add the seafoam to the gas tank and see if that helps. I'll add seafoam to the oil when I'm due for an oil change. I'll see where that gets me and reupdate.
Good to see Seafoam. We finally got it in Canada.
valve check should not take you long to do that and then get the other issue sorted out......
Actually now that you say that I think I remember reading the same in the manual. I don't fill it into the neck but I fill it close. So possibly except for I made it much more than a few miles both times. 80ish miles the first time and 60ish miles the second time. It's just about due for valve check so I'm gonna send it in and have them tasks a peek at it as well as pick up some seafoam and see where I'm at.
Thanks a bunch, I knew I could count on this forum for plenty of info. ❤
When we got our first Drifter, the PO made a point of telling us not to 'overfill' the tank at the gas pump (blocking the filler neck vent). He said it would stall without notice after about 3 miles if we did. Hope the answer to your stalling issue is this easy!
--The Bride
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