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Posted by CDNRatMan
- April 08, 2017, 16:13:57 PM 
that's my Uncle Ronny in Oshawa.........but wait till Uncle Bob gets involved......
Posted by Old Drifter
- April 08, 2017, 12:05:20 PMQuote from: RockinRonny on April 08, 2017, 10:58:19 AMRockinRonny, I believe he is referring to the steering neck bearings. Great video on the wheels BTW. All of your videos are very informative and professionally done.I powder coated my rims and hubs a few years ago and when I did I made a video describing how I did it.
I had to pull the bearings before powder coating. I didn't see your post until today or I would have posted sooner.
Posted by RockinRollin
- April 08, 2017, 10:58:19 AMI powder coated my rims and hubs a few years ago and when I did I made a video describing how I did it.
I had to pull the bearings before powder coating. I didn't see your post until today or I would have posted sooner.
Posted by drifter-paul
- April 08, 2017, 05:12:28 AMTop race out at last, used brass rod & dolly to put new races & seal in - easy peasy (Top Oil-seal ordered by part number as per fiche was not correct part, I think it is actually the one for the rear axle). - NOTE for others buying parts - the top seal doesn't need replacing, however the bottom one will probably be butchered getting the bottom race off.
Races were shot - so happy to have done that.
No play in forks, no play in front wheel, no cupping on tyre , but I still have a wiggle.
Will check rear wheel & swingarm bearings for play next and then rubber engine mount tension.
You may have heard , we are getting a bit of rain/hurricane on the East coast. The blinkers had condensation visible on the lenses after being out in the weather unintentionally, so I took them apart - copious water dripped out, and the springs jammed so couldn't twist the bulbs back in. Spent Saturday arvo with a few beers and sandpapering & waterproofing the indicators - gave my poor back a rest after tapping the upper races out (2 days effort).
Will post a verbal description of methodology use for the bearing job, in a few days when I resolve the wobble issue. 
Posted by drifter-paul
- April 05, 2017, 05:32:38 AMI got my bearings/races & oil seals top and bottom.
I have been using a Clymers 1996-98 classic 1500 manual successfully for my maintenance so far. They suggest a wooden stick to knock the races out.
The Drifter races have about a 1/2 millimeter lip (1/50 "). I got the lower out by using a Brass rod pre-hit with a hammer until I got a shoulder on it. This managed to just catch the lip and we tapped until the shoulder sheared off the rod head, re-shouldered the rod, and repeated, until very gradually it worked out - Yep , it was worn out.
Have started on the upper race (more awkward), but only get 1 mm so far - fraction of a mill at a time, North /south/east/west tapping of course. Taken 6 hours so far.
Who has done this without special tools ? There must be an easier way. 
Posted by drifter-paul
- December 07, 2016, 21:52:48 PMThanks Troll,
The postage from US is an additional $44-49.
I can get them from All Balls New Zealand (appears Aus may not have them).
Posted by Troll
- December 07, 2016, 07:56:49 AMhttp://www.allballsracing.com/22-1031.html
$44...fits all vulcans
Posted by drifter-paul
- December 06, 2016, 19:55:27 PMThanks Troll,
Do you have their part number, I could only get up wheel bearings for the Drifter when I did a search on them ?
Posted by Troll
- December 06, 2016, 09:39:42 AMThe "ALL Balls" kit is $40 for the whole thing. Includes new seals. Put them in @ 50,000 or so, now I have 110,000 with no problems
Posted by drifter-paul
- December 06, 2016, 01:28:55 AMThe shake is getting more pronounced or I'm maybe just more conscious of it. Bearings are $50 US each, plus the now exorbitant shipping since the Free Trade Agreement 
Anyone used non EOM, I doubt they are actually made by Kawasaki ??
Posted by drifter-paul
- November 19, 2016, 17:32:05 PMThanks Greenbank/everyone. I blame the cupping on all the roundabouts we (AU) now have, as it is more distinct on the right side, as the tyres wear.
The tyres are Bridgestone Exedra , same as I always run, except for one early experiment with Mitchelin.
These tyres only have less than 2000 miles on them. The bearings were checked and greased about 20,000 miles age.
Will try to get out somewhere quite and test on some corners.
I put on a zerk fitting on my California Moto Guzzi - then sold it 
Posted by greenbarn
- November 18, 2016, 23:36:42 PMRun yer hand over the front tire, and see if there are any cupping or irregular wear.
Posted by drifter-paul
- November 18, 2016, 23:14:41 PMBeen in the bush for a while.
Thanks for the comments, guys. Still monitoring it, I think it may be getting wider spread.
Will update this post, when I get it resolved.
Posted by DC
- November 14, 2016, 11:16:54 AMQuote from: pcarrell on November 05, 2016, 22:40:09 PMAt my inspection last month, the tech said the tires had the cupping going on but, technically he couldn't fail them. The wobble I had before was due to the stem bearing. After having that changed out,k it was good to go.How many miles are on the tires? Vulcan's are known for this; as the tires wear it often happens. Some say it's the angle of the front forks that causes the tires to wear in a slight cupping pattern, but you can feel it in the tire if you run your hand around the tread. It's subtle, but it's there. Changing out the tires is the fix.
Posted by greenbarn
- November 13, 2016, 22:32:22 PMDitto on the tire most likey. Neck bearing is more likely to feel weird in corners.