Modify message

The message has the following error or errors that must be corrected before continuing:
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 180 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.
Attachments: (Clear attachments)
Restrictions: 6 per post (6 remaining), maximum total size 64.00 MB, maximum individual size 29.30 MB
Uncheck the attachments you no longer want attached
Click or drag files here to attach them.
(Clear attachments)
Other options
Shortcuts: ALT+S post or ALT+P preview

Topic summary

Posted by graypritt
 - February 03, 2017, 07:48:53 AM

so I did everything I could with the tank on. I Believe the fuel pump is done.   Taking if off today or tomorrow to do test the fuel pump with some wires,   looked up how to change it doesn't seem difficult.    I think the filter will be changed while I am at it.    I will have to wait to see if they want to spend the money on the fuel pump, trying to do this at cheaply as possible.    Thanks Gray

Posted by Troll
 - February 03, 2017, 07:34:50 AM
Quote from: Bucko on February 03, 2017, 00:42:59 AM

Wow.  I'm stunned a new pump is so cheap.  I'd hat to see what a new OEM pump costs.  I fell like buying one or tow of these and keeping it (them) on the shelf until needed.  Thanks for posting that link.

The pump should 'spool' up pressure as soon as you turn the key on.  If you're not hearing it spool up (and typically shut off again after a few seconds), it's not working.

The pump should power on for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. If you don't start the bike, it will shut off, and if you do, it will keep running.  This is the same thing as cars do, but you usually can't hear them. The easiest way to test the pump is to take the two wire connector under the instrument cluster and determine if there is power on one wire (b+ from the relay) and then ground the other one (fuel pump side) This is what the computer does when it sees a correct voltage on the (unused) pin 5....really no different than doing the same thing to a Ford or Chevy....

Posted by Bucko
 - February 03, 2017, 00:42:59 AM

Wow.  I'm stunned a new pump is so cheap.  I'd hate to see what a new OEM pump costs.  I feel like buying one or two of these and keeping it (them) on the shelf until needed.  Thanks for posting that link.

The pump should 'spool' up pressure as soon as you turn the key on.  If you're not hearing it spool up (and typically shut off again after a few seconds), it's not working.

Posted by AZCaveman
 - February 02, 2017, 22:45:01 PM

if the tank has corrosion, chances are the fuel pump gave up.  They are cheap enough to replace[60 bucks]  and reliable as hell under constant use.  just not very well prone to sitting long term with old fuel.  Easy to replace and peace of mind.  http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23443596-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-vulcan-1500-drifter-vn1500-2001-2005

Posted by greenbarn
 - February 01, 2017, 19:20:15 PM

Great looking drifter there!! I always said I love a 2-toned bike-especially a Drifter  ;)  That looks a lot like Troll's bike, and several others, it's a great color combination.

Glad you got the starter thing sorted out.  On the fuel pump, looks like (from the diagram) the ground comes from the ECU (BK/W wire) and the power comes from the fuel pump relay (DFI relay) (W/R wire).  To test the fuel pump,  you could jump a hot wire to the W/R wire at the relay.  This should energize the fuel pump, and bypass everything else.  However, it does assume the ECU is good, and the wiring from the relay and ECU to the fuel pump (and the plug under the tank, btw).   Incidently the W/R wire at both fuel injectors and the idle control valves are all the same W/R wire.    Another option (better perhaps) is to remove the tank (it's not that hard) and unplug the 4-plug plug going to the fuel pump in the tank.  Jump wires from your jumper box to the plug going to the pump- +on the W/R and - on the B/W.   This eliminates everything but the pump and wiring harness.

Hopefully Troll will be along shortly to admire his bike's long-lost sister, and maybe he'll have something easier to try. 

Posted by graypritt
 - February 01, 2017, 16:34:24 PM

so I got it turning over and I have at least some fire.    but not matter what I do I do not smell gas.   so I think the pump it frozen or one of the lines.   from the look of the insides of the take there is a lot of corrosion.

My question this time, is there a easy way to check the fuel pump? the book talks about it and I could do it. I am checking the relay shortly.    But I don't want to waste time tearing the tank off if there is a easy check.

thanks Gray

Posted by graypritt
 - February 01, 2017, 15:13:55 PM

another pic

Posted by graypritt
 - February 01, 2017, 15:06:48 PM

a pic,, not my wiring planning on fixing it if the motor runs.

Posted by DC
 - February 01, 2017, 10:15:33 AM
Quote from: graypritt on February 01, 2017, 06:50:35 AM

P.S.  it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders.

That's what we're here for.
Posted by graypritt
 - February 01, 2017, 06:50:35 AM

so got bored, and went and checked the clutch switch.    Guess what the bike is now turning over.   not starting yet but got it turning over   next to check to try and get it started.

I think during the accident the wire got hit on the clutch switch.  it is has a temp repair on it right now.

thanks Gray

P.S.  it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders. 

Posted by graypritt
 - February 01, 2017, 06:35:55 AM

   thanks for the info.   I have a few meters and will be checking what you suggested.     I am gonna look closely at the clutch switch and everything connected to it.    along with a bunch of other stuff that was connected.     I will be working on it Thursday and will let you all know if I find something.   thanks. Gray   

Posted by AZCaveman
 - February 01, 2017, 01:54:14 AM

Also I have three drifters that sat for a bit and the clutch safety switch was always the issue.  Turn key on  Press starter button while jiggling the hell out of the clutch lever..that sometimes clears the issue.  they get tarnished connections for some reason when sitting for a bit.   But if your fuel pump isn't activating when you turn on the key..this isn't the issue. 

Posted by AZCaveman
 - February 01, 2017, 01:44:49 AM

The answer to your Question about the ignition switch is that they have a security resistor built in.  So replacing the ignition switch will not allow the bike to crank over or start.  The yellow wire has to have a 100 ohm resistor wired inline to compensate for this.   Any decent hardware store will have these.

Posted by DC
 - January 31, 2017, 22:57:03 PM

Also make sure your negative battery connection has a solid ground to the block. That's where I had a problem and thought I needed a new battery.  I had to make a helicoil for the ground strap screw on the block, since it was stripped out.

Posted by greenbarn
 - January 31, 2017, 21:50:07 PM

Here's the starter diagram I was referencing:

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk