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Posted by greenbarn
- February 01, 2017, 19:20:15 PMGreat looking drifter there!! I always said I love a 2-toned bike-especially a Drifter 
That looks a lot like Troll's bike, and several others, it's a great color combination.
Glad you got the starter thing sorted out. On the fuel pump, looks like (from the diagram) the ground comes from the ECU (BK/W wire) and the power comes from the fuel pump relay (DFI relay) (W/R wire). To test the fuel pump, you could jump a hot wire to the W/R wire at the relay. This should energize the fuel pump, and bypass everything else. However, it does assume the ECU is good, and the wiring from the relay and ECU to the fuel pump (and the plug under the tank, btw). Incidently the W/R wire at both fuel injectors and the idle control valves are all the same W/R wire. Another option (better perhaps) is to remove the tank (it's not that hard) and unplug the 4-plug plug going to the fuel pump in the tank. Jump wires from your jumper box to the plug going to the pump- +on the W/R and - on the B/W. This eliminates everything but the pump and wiring harness.
Hopefully Troll will be along shortly to admire his bike's long-lost sister, and maybe he'll have something easier to try.
Posted by graypritt
- February 01, 2017, 16:34:24 PMso I got it turning over and I have at least some fire. but not matter what I do I do not smell gas. so I think the pump it frozen or one of the lines. from the look of the insides of the take there is a lot of corrosion.
My question this time, is there a easy way to check the fuel pump? the book talks about it and I could do it. I am checking the relay shortly. But I don't want to waste time tearing the tank off if there is a easy check.
thanks Gray
Posted by graypritt
- February 01, 2017, 15:13:55 PManother pic
Posted by graypritt
- February 01, 2017, 15:06:48 PMa pic,, not my wiring planning on fixing it if the motor runs.
Posted by DC
- February 01, 2017, 10:15:33 AMQuote from: graypritt on February 01, 2017, 06:50:35 AMThat's what we're here for.P.S. it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders.
Posted by graypritt
- February 01, 2017, 06:50:35 AMso got bored, and went and checked the clutch switch. Guess what the bike is now turning over. not starting yet but got it turning over next to check to try and get it started.
I think during the accident the wire got hit on the clutch switch. it is has a temp repair on it right now.
thanks Gray
P.S. it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders.
Posted by graypritt
- February 01, 2017, 06:35:55 AMthanks for the info. I have a few meters and will be checking what you suggested. I am gonna look closely at the clutch switch and everything connected to it. along with a bunch of other stuff that was connected. I will be working on it Thursday and will let you all know if I find something. thanks. Gray
Posted by AZCaveman
- February 01, 2017, 01:54:14 AMAlso I have three drifters that sat for a bit and the clutch safety switch was always the issue. Turn key on Press starter button while jiggling the hell out of the clutch lever..that sometimes clears the issue. they get tarnished connections for some reason when sitting for a bit. But if your fuel pump isn't activating when you turn on the key..this isn't the issue.
Posted by AZCaveman
- February 01, 2017, 01:44:49 AMThe answer to your Question about the ignition switch is that they have a security resistor built in. So replacing the ignition switch will not allow the bike to crank over or start. The yellow wire has to have a 100 ohm resistor wired inline to compensate for this. Any decent hardware store will have these.
Posted by DC
- January 31, 2017, 22:57:03 PMAlso make sure your negative battery connection has a solid ground to the block. That's where I had a problem and thought I needed a new battery. I had to make a helicoil for the ground strap screw on the block, since it was stripped out.
Posted by greenbarn
- January 31, 2017, 21:50:07 PMHere's the starter diagram I was referencing:
Posted by greenbarn
- January 31, 2017, 21:37:52 PMIt is designed to start either with the clutch in, OR in neutral - either way. Here's the catch, though-- both of these switches rely on the same wire at the clutch switch - so if the wire connection is bad here, neither of the safety switches will ground, so the starter relay will not work. Looks like that wire is black, so if you ground the black wire at the clutch switch it bypasses the neutral switch and the clutch switch. This is the first place I would look - I've read about numerous problems here.
There is a "main fuse" located in the main starter relay, according to the drawing, but if that were bad I don't think you would be getting any power to the ignition at all (someone can correct me if I'm wrong)
Do you have a test light or volt meter?? check some voltage at a few points. Key on should give you 12V to the starter/ignition fuse. If the fuse is good, then it completes the circuit to the right handlebar switch- should get 12V to the kill switch, and if it is "ON", then 12V to the starter switch. Press the starter switch, should give you 12V to the starter/ignition relay. That should energize said relay sending 12V to the coil in the starter relay, which in turn connects the circuit for the big cable feeding the starter motor.
Posted by graypritt
- January 31, 2017, 20:41:29 PM I have checked the fuses, every one that I could find all good. But it had a 10 amp instead of a 15 amp on the fuel, the battery is new, I even hooked my motorcycle jumper box on to it to check to see if a lack of power is causing it no change. Did notice that the battery was at the very lowest for cold cranking amps. they are going to buy a new one if I can get it even turning over.
The head light is completely unplugged needs a new one. I am trying how to cheat on the tip over switch to see of I can bypass it to check that. I think I am going to have to build a relay tester to test the relays.
I also plan on seeing if I can bypass the clutch switch, my question is on this bike does the clutch have to be in to start. I know some that do and a lot that don't.
What's this about the ignition switch, I have no idea what is on it at the moment. is there a issue related to this? anyone know how I can check what it is on the bike?
The bike is actually in pretty good shape, 10,000 miles and other than the head light and the signal I saw no obvious damage. all the tins are in good shape. To be honest it is in a lot better shape than my 01, of course my 01 is well over a hundred thousand miles. and I have ridden it hard.
thanks Gray
Posted by greenbarn
- January 31, 2017, 20:08:47 PMHello Gray, and welcome to the forum. Don't worry, we won't make fun of you too bad, several of the members here also have a Harley, and many of them have owned them in the past - before they wised up... LOL... It won't be long, once you get that Drifter purring, and see the elegant beauty going down the road, that you will get jealous, and you'll want one too! 
Now on to your problem. Although I've never had this issue, I've read a lot about the clutch switch getting dis-located and not allowing the starter to crank. You might check that first. If this thing has been stored long, hard to tell what has been broken, bent, un-hooked, or otherwise disabled, especially considering it's been "ridden hard".
Also, the tip-over sensor is often cited as causing the problem - again I've never personally had this bugging mine, so sorry, I don't remember where it located.
I don't want to assume anything, so I'll ask: Have you verified the "new" battery has good voltage? (should have 12.6 V) It wouldn't be the first time a supposedly "new" part was not up to snuff. For future reference, the EFI on these is really sensitive to voltage -- many people (me included) have had a low battery to the point where the bike will turn over, halfway decent actually, but it won't start b/c the EFI computer won't work, so no fuel. But if your battery was pretty low (like sometimes they don't come charged) then you would probably get both problems you are getting.
Did you happen to check all the fuses??
The starter circuit has a 10A fuse. There is a relay in the starter ignition circuit and then the starter relay aka solenoid. You can check to see if you are getting current on the starter (from the solenoid) when the starter button is pushed - if not, check for current on the relay/solenoid when starter button is pushed. If no current there, then it's matter of back-tracking to see what is not connecting.
On the fuel pump- yes, you should hear it run when key is on. There is a fuel pump relay, I believe under the right side cover. gets its current from a 15 A fuse.
Hope that helps at least give you a couple things to look at, and maybe someone else will be along to help as well.
Posted by Troll
- January 31, 2017, 20:08:28 PMStart by checking ALL the fuses, followed by the connection at the clutch lever switch. A broken headlight could mean some blown fuses...and does it have a stock ign. switch or an aftermarket switch?