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Posted by alamogeorge
- April 07, 2012, 14:09:51 PMMy dad used to have a plating business. He mainly did firearms of high quality. I have no clue as to the process for plastic but it is probably cheaper to buy a new piece. Of course, if it is discontinued and you can't find a used on, you don't have much choice. You can use steel wool but it also leaves behind little tiny particles of steel that will rust giving you a rusted appearance on your chrome. You would never guess the number of people who used steel wool on their stainless steel gun and wonder how it rusted. The gun was fine but the particles of wool left behind rusted.
The prices mentioned earlier for the exhaust tips etc were a bit high but not astronomical for a good job. Plating does not simply involve "dipping" the part. It is very labor intensive to get a high quality finish. The "dipping" is the least of the project. Chrome is one of the more difficult finishes to remove then it has to be polished to a high mirror finish. To an untrained eye you may not see any blemishes but they are there even if you were to take a brand new part. The quality of the plating is in the prep work much like a paint job. There are guys willing to take what you give them and dip it but you get a very cheap look. Even those who do polish like they should rarely give it the perfectionist attention that those like my father did. He had a stroke a few years ago and had to retire from that business.
If he hadn't I would be blinged out. haha. I guess he spoiled me with his quality because I rarely see work that passes my inspection even when the owner is happy.
Posted by Troll
- April 06, 2012, 08:17:35 AMThe process is called electroplating. From what I can find out, the base metal conductor is somehow bonded to the plastic and then the electrical plating process is carried out pretty much the same as for a conductive metal. It's very expensive compared to the normal metal chroming procedure...
Posted by cochise
- April 05, 2012, 20:23:13 PMI was building a custom front end for a car a few years ago and made a grill shell out of fiberglass. i found a place in Florida that claimed that they could chrome plate fiberglass. Every other plater laughed and said it can"t be done. Sent it out and they chromed it and it looked great. It was around $ 350.00 I'll search for the name and post it.
Posted by 49Reo
- March 31, 2012, 14:13:46 PMYou are right, Ratze, but if a bike is chromed up, not looking after it is not a good way to maintain value; as much as not maintaining the mechanicals, paint etc. I can take chrome or leave it but if it has chrome, it will have to stay nice.... on a positive note, spent (too much) time polishing today, first with Never-Dull, then with Auto-sol. Came out not perfect, but acceptable.
Ride safe, have fun.
Regards and such,
49Reo
Posted by Troll
- March 31, 2012, 13:07:54 PMWell, if the chrome came with the bike, and that's the version you have, then having that chrome kept in decent condition is the mission... Had my bike been a '99 or '00, I wouldn't have this problem, and I sure wouldn't be adding any to have to look after.....
Posted by ratze
- March 31, 2012, 11:49:16 AMLOL, i love it. great info, very much app. i know this next statment may offend someone but jes sayen, chrome dont get ya home. i kinda like the blacked out rat look. army green work horse. very much looken forward to drift in. I know i know send pics, as soon as i get the tins back on it. saddle to. wayne over ther at heathers says, busy busy. love ther work tho, very much worth the wait. RIDE ON.
Posted by 49Reo
- March 31, 2012, 11:15:33 AMI found one at a dealer, $100.00 if it is the right one....4 hour trip on a good day to get there, so will wait for a nice sunny day to ride there....
Regards and such,
49Reo
Posted by Troll
- March 31, 2012, 11:12:07 AMYa know, most people don't really understand what "chrome" plating actually is. The silver color is the base coat, and the chrome is actually clear over the top. If they worked on it enough to remove the chrome, you have the nickle plating exposed, and that's not real shiny....Short of trying what ever you have in your arsenal of potions, I guess I can't really help...Those heat shields show up at swap meets all the time. I'm looking for the one that covers the muffler on a softail with duals... I have an idea about a heat shield on my Cobra pipe.....
Posted by 49Reo
- March 31, 2012, 10:28:12 AMMy Harley I picked up used last year has a very dull rear heat shield; looks like someone used the wrong product on it; any ideas on how to restore the shine o it? I tried mothers chrome and metal polish and not much luck. It isn't bad, but I'm fussy.
Regards, and such,
49Reo
Posted by Troll
- March 31, 2012, 10:09:04 AMI was a shock to me, too. I had the 0000 wool to remove rust from inside fenders and on the lower part of my driving lights near where the bolts go through. I didn't try rubbing hard, just a little, and I was surprised...not something I'm making a regular practice, though...
Posted by 49Reo
- March 30, 2012, 23:43:33 PMI wouldn't have thought you could get away with using Steel wool in and grade on chrome; my cousin used to own a body shop, and had to send out a customers bumper on a restored car, because the guy did just that; he tried to remove road tar with steel wool; it made quite a mess on it. Maybe the chrome on the plastic is a different type? I am going to try that on something, as soon as I come across something I don't mind sacrificing; like maybe the chrome on the wife's Toyota?
LOL 
Regards and such,
49Reo
Posted by greenbarn
- March 30, 2012, 16:34:32 PMTroll, the place in Columbus OH is Keystone. The phone number there for Michelle is 614-434-2659. I did not get a chance today to call and they are closed now. I don't know if they do plastic or not.
Posted by Troll
- March 30, 2012, 12:30:46 PMWeeeeelllll, I just talked to Bob at Chrome Tech USA ( http://www.chrometechusa.com/index.html ) about the headlight . What he does is vacuum metalizing...just like the original finish on car interiors and model car parts. His prices are reasonable, quoting me around $50 to do my headlight, BUT...this is not the oem finish, and won't stand up to the elements. He told me to check out electroplating plastic, as this is what he feels was originally done. He told me to try some 0000 steel wool on the scuff and see what happens. I would never have thought I could get away with that, but the scuff seems a little less noticeable, and certainly no worse...no he doesn't do any metal plating...so the search continues. He told me that the electroplating process for plastic is VERY expensive... 
Posted by 49Reo
- March 30, 2012, 10:22:15 AMNow that is good news! Since nothing lasts forever, especially our bikes, a decent source for getting the bright-work redone is great. Especially if he is reliable in the shipping/receiving dept. I sent a brake pedal out to a different shop than the one mentioned in my last post, (I had extended it 2" to make room for my big feet) after 2 months and not receiving it back, I called and they had no clue as to what I was talking about. Finally they found it, but I won't trust them with any thing else. When you talk to this guy on the phone, ask if he can email a work order # with a description of the parts received and work required. It will make both his life and our lives a lot easier if things are properly recorded and tracked. Keep us posted as to what he says; I may send some goodies to him as well. If he pans out, it would be a good item for the Mods/Tips section as well.
Regards and such,
49Reo
Posted by Troll
- March 30, 2012, 08:35:55 AMI was googling around last night after I posted this and I found a place in Madison, Wi that specializes in re-chroming plastic car and model kit parts. I emailed him and he wants to talk to me on the phone about the job....Could be a lifesaver for us, and a new revenue stream for him!