propeller shaft boot replacement

Started by yellowgizmo99, August 02, 2012, 10:13:24 AM

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cactuskid

DP,

Thank You Very Much for the help with the part # !!
I will try to locate that o-ring before starting to take the bike apart.


drifter-paul

#15

This is from the Ron Ayers website
92055C is short-hand and will appear on other pages/fiche as an O-ring, the full Kawasaki part number is 92055-1646 and that is what you quote to the parts man.
Little trouble attaching. The 2nd attachment is the one to reference.
DP :)

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit, wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

cactuskid

Hello DP,

I am referring to the 1st reply to the initial question on this post that has a diagram and recommends greasing a sleeve and replacing an o-ring while replacing the propeller boot.
The part number associated with the o-ring is given but I am having trouble locating that part.


drifter-paul

Hi Cactuskid,
Have you got a picture/screen print ? Dont know what you are talking about here ???
DP

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit, wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

cactuskid

I will need to replace the boot on my Drifter 1500 also but have a question about the o-ring.
In searching for the 0-ring I am finding listings with additional numbers behind the #92055C.
Can someone please assist me with some additional information on the part # ?

Thank You In Advance !!!


drifter-paul

This is a little cheat I came up with.  I sawed/snipped thru the arched wire welded to the right side swingarm that the hydraulic hose runs thru. I cut close to the swingarm and removed a length - less than the diameter of the plastic covered line and a little more than the diameter of the bare hydraulic line. This allows me to unbolt the brake pod and slide the hose free. Then I undo the electrical connection on the left – 8mm bolt, Philips head screw, pull apart then use pointy nose pliers to ease the electrical connector off the swingarm bracket.

Remove the left & right sidecovers.

I use a platform jack on castors and raise the frame by the ("centre stand") tabs at the rear of the frame until the front wheel raises, then chock it.

Pull the boot back on itself so you can see the splines (and maybe the pinhole).

Continue raising the bike until the rear tyre just spins free. Rotate tyre until the splines pinhole is visible. Lower a fraction, and then remove the shocks.

Undo the 22mm cross bolt and have helper roll the full ensemble straight back, leaving the final drive hanging from the engine, held by the splines and the pin.

Depress pin and then remove driveshaft and put into the removed swingarm.

Remove old boot, retrieve and re-use the spring inside. Grease the channel where the boot will sit and slide the boot on and twist until the half circle cutout is lined up correctly. Check the spring is sitting correctly. Grease all splines and frame to swingarm surfaces.

Now, this is where 2 helpers are handy. One to roll the rear ensemble forward to mate up.  2nd helper on the right, ready to turn the 22mm cross bolt in by hand, you with your finger down the throat of the swingarm lining up splines & pinhole.

Remember, you can turn the engine-side splines by hand to set it up for the docking.

Now, a bit of jiggling, splines engaged up as far as the pin, depress pin and then, a lift and push of the rear ensemble by 1st helper to fully engage (remember your fingers are still in there). Check pin is seated by trying to pull rear off.

A bit more cussing and alignment, and the 22mm is screwed in.

Then re-assembly is just the reverse of disassembly (plus smear the shock rubbers with grease).

I prefer this method, to having to do it solo, holding the bare swingarm in place.

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit, wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

49Reo

Thanks, Chief; much appreciated.

Regards and such,
49Reo

Location: B.C., VDR#: 666
02 Drifter 1500, 02 Softail Frankenstein Trike.."Beauty" and "The Beast"

"If you don't believe your country should come before yourself, Ya can better serve your country, by living somewhere else."  In memory, Stompin' Tom Connors
RIP

chief

Slainte mhaith - Good Health - Cheers

'02 Vulcan Drifter 1500

49Reo

Great, thanks, Troll; since I bought the bike used, with 5000 miles on it and know nothing of the PO's service work, it makes sense to do it as soon as I can. Thanks for the info.

Regards and such,
49 Reo

Location: B.C., VDR#: 666
02 Drifter 1500, 02 Softail Frankenstein Trike.."Beauty" and "The Beast"

"If you don't believe your country should come before yourself, Ya can better serve your country, by living somewhere else."  In memory, Stompin' Tom Connors
RIP

Troll

  Initially, it's scheduled to be lubed at 7500 and then it looks like they want the sliding joint lubed every 24,000, and the final drive oil checked every other oil change, and replaced every 24,000. I got in the habit about 100 years ago, of changing all the oils at once. I change engine oil at 3,000, so another 200 ml of 90w every oil change is no big deal. The first service shows the final drive oil being changed at 600 miles, but I'm sure nobody has that issue, any more....As far as scheduled maintenance, there is none, other than inspections of bolt torque, etc. According to the dealer, and I wouldn't have ignored it, anyway, the spline going into the rear wheel cush drive should be greased every time the rear wheel is removed..

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

49Reo

 Hi, Troll; I have a question for you: How often does the sliding joint need to be re-packed? (Mileage-wise) Also, what other routine maintenance is required on the drive shaft and final?

Thanks in advance,

49Reo

Location: B.C., VDR#: 666
02 Drifter 1500, 02 Softail Frankenstein Trike.."Beauty" and "The Beast"

"If you don't believe your country should come before yourself, Ya can better serve your country, by living somewhere else."  In memory, Stompin' Tom Connors
RIP

yellowgizmo99

OK, thanks for the help, I will see if they have the o-ring, got other stuff on order as is.


Troll

The u joint will only move a few millimeters, and that's not going to be enough to fiddle the boot and spring. Repacking the sliding joint is a routine maintenance thing. If the o ring fails, then gear oil will leak out of the area where the boot is, and the sliding coupler can become worn and fail if not greased. When the shaft is installed in the swing arm, the end to end movement of the shaft is almost non existent, since the coupler is spring loaded to minimize the end play...part 92081. The dealer should have these o rings in stick, since they recommend replacing them EVERY time the shaft is pulled out...

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

yellowgizmo99

after you release the pin(I am guessing it is 610 in diagram ) can you not move the u-joint enough to get the boot back in? if not then I need to order #92055C for the o-ring is what you are saying, correct. Thanks.


Troll

You have 2 choices, both of which involve removing the swing arm.  I put a u-joint in last year, and didn't take the final drive off the swing arm, but disassembled as a unit. Came apart ok, but the reinstallation was a BEAR! You have to remove the swing arm to replace the boot, no options there. You should remove the final drive, replace the  O ring on the drive shaft coupler, and pack the coupler with wheel bearing grease while you are in there. This is a pretty big job, and if you're not mechanically inclined, this might be a job for a "professional". The coupler and o ring are highlited

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

yellowgizmo99

I am changing the boot because it is cracked. It looks like I have to remove the swing arm bolt that goes thru the frame, then will the shaft, after pushing in the retaining pin pull out enought to get the boot off and new one on with out taking the swing arm bolt completly out? Do I have to take the 4 nuts that hold on the rear hub to remove the shaft so that the rear hub and shaft pulls out enought, or is there an easier way?


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