Clarksville Cruise – Tennessee Motorcycle Loop

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Clarksville Cruise – Tennessee Motorcycle Loop 

The ride from Port Royal to Adams includes a mix of woods and fields, with barns and farmhouses dotting the countryside – a common theme for this Tennessee motorcycle loop. (Photos by the author)

Clarksville, also known as Queen City, sits along the Cumberland River in Tennessee about 50 miles northwest of Nashville. Lifelong residents mingle with newcomers from the university and Army post, resulting in a mix of backgrounds that continues to breathe new life into this historic tobacco-trading town. It's that combination of old and new, charm and creativity, that makes it unique. 

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This Tennessee motorcycle loop starts and ends at Clarksville's Liberty Park, a great place to watch boats go into the marina or warm up on the walking trails. From the park, I headed east out of the city on State Route 76. For those needing some gear, two motorcycle dealerships are located on this road. 

The restored 1859 general store in Port Royal houses a museum and visitor center. Behind the building is a parking lot, bathrooms, and picnic tables.

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Taking a left on Old Clarksville Springfield Road, my first stop was Port Royal State Historic Park. The ride to this site had little traffic, and the park is small and walkable, consisting of the historic downtown area of Port Royal, a town established in 1797 along the Red River. The old general store serves as the visitor center. 

If you’re staying the night in Clarksville, check the Roxy’s schedule and catch a show.

Just north of Port Royal is Adams, home of the Bell Witch cabin and cave. Tours of the cabin and cave begin in May, so I missed my chance on this mid-April ride. Maybe that was fortunate, since I've heard stories of bad luck following those who enter the cave. Those brave enough to enter will surely enjoy the stories of John Bell's neighbor, Kate Batts, whose spirit is said to reside on the property. 

By the looks of the quiet little town of Adams, you wouldn’t expect such a sinister story as you’ll hear at this stop.

From Adams, I headed north into Kentucky on U.S. Route 41, passing through quiet farmland on a gentle ride and giving myself time to enjoy the sunshine. I then took Kentucky State Route 1453 south and stopped in at the MB Roland Distillery. If you like whiskey, consider taking the tour of the distillery, and don't forget to grab a bottle on your way out. 

Stretch your legs with a tour of the MB Roland Distillery in Kentucky.

Heading south back into Tennessee from Kentucky State Route 115 consists of more farmland until the residential areas around the Fort Campbell Army post come into view. Riding into Clarksville's downtown area, you'll be greeted with many great eating spots to choose from for a lunch break. On this ride, I picked an old favorite: Blackhorse Pub & Brewery. This spot serves up comforting meals and made-in-house brews, and it's been a focal point of downtown Clarksville for decades. From Blackhorse, the downtown area is very walkable and includes a park, the Customs House Museum, a meadery, a used bookstore, the Roxy Regional Theatre, and plenty more to explore. 

The Blackhorse Pub & Brewery is just one of many thriving businesses to check out on Franklin Street.

The Customs House Museum in Clarksville was originally built as a post office in 1898. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.

After lunch, I cruised through Austin Peay State University, my alma mater. I remembered walking with my now-husband to class as we chatted about our plans for the future, completely unaware that my education in English and creative writing would lead to a career of riding and writing about motorcycles. The campus is especially beautiful in spring when the dogwoods and other flowering trees are in full bloom. 

See all of Rider's Tennessee touring stories here

I recalled many fond memories of my college years while riding through Austin Peay State University.

About 3 miles northeast of APSU is Dunbar Cave State Park. Parking beside the visitor center, it's a short 0.15-mile walk down a wooded path to reach the mouth of the cave. Entering the cave requires booking a guided tour, but the floor in front of the cave's mouth is open for visitors to shake a leg on. That's right: The concrete platform in front of the cave was used as a dance-floor before the invention of air conditioning, with consistent 56-degree air blowing out of the cave to cool dancers and performers. 

In addition to the cave seen here, Dunbar Cave State Park also includes a golf course and walking trails. Tours of the cave run from May to September.

The second loop of this ride heads west from Clarksville and is curvier than the first loop. Heading west on U.S. Route 79 and then south on State Route 233, riders are treated to winding pavement through low-traffic, heavily wooded country, with the road hopping from hill to hollow to hill and snaking along creeks. From Needmore, head south on Lylewood Road to drop down next to the river and ride to the Lylewood Inn. 

Lylewood Road offers a pleasant shaded ride with very little traffic to contend with. Keep your eyes peeled for deer, turkey, and other wildlife.

Offering reprieve in an area with no other store or business for miles, Lylewood Inn is a large brick house set on a hilltop overlooking the river. The Mercantile store beside the inn offers jams, jellies, pickled goods, homemade gifts, and quilting supplies. Originally built in the early 1800s, this house has an interesting history involving arson and the Civil War, and it's worth a stop. 

Lylewood Inn makes for a nice stop at its location on the hilltop. Check the inn’s website for rates and events.

After popping into the Mercantile at Lylewood Inn, continue on Lylewood Road, which turns into Wildcat Creek Road. At the end of the road, turn left on State Route 46 and ride about 3 miles to the Cumberland City ferry. Ferry fees for out-of-county motorcycles are only $1, but be aware that the ferry only accepts cash and no bills larger than $5. From here, you can connect to my Small Town Tennessee Loop (find this Favorite Ride in the February 2024 issue) to extend your trip. 

At the end of Wildcat Creek Road, turn left here on SR-46 to head to the ferry and enjoy views of Cumberland City.

Sticking to my planned route for the day, I entered Cumberland City and headed northeast on State Route 149 for a leisurely cruise on the opposite side of the Cumberland River to enter Clarksville, arriving back at Liberty Park. This route is passable year-round, but a spring or fall trip is best for colorful trees and pleasant temperatures. Finishing this Tennessee motorcycle loop, you'll find more to explore in Clarksville, like the river walk in McGregor Park or the Fort Defiance Civil War Park & Interpretive Center. 

The Cumberland City ferry is just a short ride across the river. It runs from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day.

See all of Rider's touring stories here.

Tennessee Motorcycle Loop Resources

• Clarksville, TN 
• Port Royal State Historic Park
• Historic Bell Witch Cave
• MB Roland Distillery
• Blackhorse Pub & Brewery
• Customs House Museum
• Roxy Regional Theatre
• Lylewood Inn

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