Engine Coolant Pipe? Repair

gdrudd13 · May 05, 2014, 21:36:00 PM

Well I've studied it, thought about it, studied more, thought some more, and I can't think of a way to modify it to the point it's easy to fix without a lot of extra work fabbing something. So it looks like at some point I'll be taking it apart to repair it back to factory. I still hate that design, and the engineer part of me thinks someone needs to die lol. Right now some high temp RTV has gotten it to quit leaking. I'm hoping that will last long enough for the summer temps to hit triple digits on a regular basis so I won't miss not riding it for a bit while I'm repairing it.

Yes, I know this should be a one day fix, but the easy fixes are never easy on any vehicle I own, or any my brothers own. It's kind of a joke between me and my brothers. Even the mechanic that works on the Jeeps plans for any one of our Jeeps to take twice as long as it should. And before I get crap about taking my Jeep to a mechanic, he only does the stuff that requires a vehicle lift, or the specialty (read: expensive) tools like what's needed to properly set up axle gears, etc. He's also fast. The issues that our Jeeps have would stop up most shops for much longer. See, there, defended myself lol.

Whenever I do fix it, I'll make sure to take lots of pictures.

CDNRatMan · May 05, 2014, 18:37:34 PM

ok gdrudd13 now time for you to let us know what you are going to do and take pictures so we can follow along with you on this repair.....lol.....

mumbles · May 05, 2014, 18:12:28 PM

Dangit Ratman, you got me scratching the ol' noggin now !!
All of the air cleaner stuff that's underneath the tank has been removed on my bike so the air cleaner comes right off without taking the tank off. I don't think it was off.

CDNRatMan · May 05, 2014, 15:28:34 PM

I'm only asking because I had my tank off when I removed all the air cleaner stuff and cannot remember if you can go that far with the tank on....

mumbles · May 05, 2014, 14:02:26 PM

Quote from: CDNRatMan on May 04, 2014, 10:16:58 AM
Would you have to go as far as taking the tank off?
Or was yours off for another reason?

I can't remember if it was off Ratman.

The instrument panel will have to be removed to access the radiator filler neck.

CDNRatMan · May 04, 2014, 10:16:58 AM

Would you have to go as far as taking the tank off?
Or was yours off for another reason?

mumbles · May 04, 2014, 09:37:42 AM

Parts needed and prices from Partzilla

1 11060-1926
GASKET,CLUTCH COVER
$27.51

1 670B2021
O RING,21MM
$1.96

2 92093-1427
SEAL
$1.96

mumbles · May 04, 2014, 09:31:44 AM

Sorry guys I had a lot more pics but for some reason they got deleted from my computer. Here are a few...

Remove = Front exhaust, air cleaner,
The floorboard and brake pedal was unbolted and hung to the engine guard out of the way.

These are the seals that cause the leak...

Make sure to clean the old cover gasket off the engine. It cannot be reused.
I also replaced the o-ring that attaches the front radiator hose to the cover.

CDNRatMan · May 03, 2014, 22:55:10 PM

just been reading about this and it is covered under the clutch section because of the right cover, this pipe is mentioned there.

gdrudd13 · May 03, 2014, 11:34:42 AM

I'm still thinking about how to do this an easier way. Whether I do this an easier way or the way the manual says I'll make sure to post pictures and instructions. This sounds like a rather uncommon problem, so of course it would happen to my bike lol.

CDNRatMan · May 03, 2014, 10:57:44 AM

Well please keep us informed and pictures would be cool if I ever have to do this repair.....thanks.

gdrudd13 · May 03, 2014, 09:59:27 AM

Yeah I looked at it this morning and realized that there wasn't anything holding the pipe in and came to the same conclusion. So unless I build a bracket to keep it solid, it won't work. That's too bad. I dislike the design of that piece as it sits. But it's cheaper to build so they'll sacrifice ease of repair to save $1 or less.

Troll · May 03, 2014, 07:50:23 AM

Nope, It won't work. You have to replace the seals and keep the pipe solid. The downward pressure/inward pressure of the solid pipe is what keeps it tight. If you put something soft in there, it will pop out the first time the engine gets up to temp. I've seen people try to cheat this sort of thing on cars, and it's cheaper to do it right once...Drain your oil into a clean container and keep it...why throw it away? No you don't even want to think about reusing the gasket, since it seals the water pump inside the crank case....Now, if you just drain the oil, and take your time, you're back to the $50 I figured it would cost, plus you are learning about your bike. Look at it this way: it could be an H-D and you would be getting in a whole lot deeper for a lot more money!

greenbarn · May 02, 2014, 23:04:29 PM

It might work, GD. The seals on the pipe might just be simple o-rings, too, which could be picked up at the local parts store.

Keep in mind, though- this pipe will be under pressure. Not that the silicone hose shouldn't hold - but if it DOES blow out, it will most surely scald the daylights out of your right leg.

gdrudd13 · May 02, 2014, 22:53:16 PM

Yup. That's what I need to change. All it takes is replacing two seals. Shouldn't be that hard to do, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, and it would require a gasket for the right side cover. I might see what I can do to simplify it. I think if I cut out a section of the tube, I can use a 90° high temp silicone tube and then just use some hose clamps. Worst case scenario I have to do it the "correct way".

It's kind of pricey too. The elbow itself can be reused, but the right side cover gasket runs $30.26 as I'm guessing it can't be reused, I'd need to do an oil change which is 3 qts of amsoil, and then the seals which bike bandit shows at $3.44 each. I have a bunch of coolant, so that won't be an issue. but that would run over $70 all told. A silicone elbow runs about $15, and then just the seals. It would be much cheaper. Especially since I don't need an oil change yet.

So part of me is cheap, part of me is lazy, and the other (vast majority) part of me wants to make this a lot simpler. If I have to fix it, why not improve upon it and make it simpler to repair on the off chance it happens again. It failed once, it could fail again.

CDNRatMan · May 02, 2014, 21:55:56 PM

ok so this is a lot more then just a quick change. Thanks mumbles.

mumbles · May 02, 2014, 20:20:52 PM

The front header pipe has to be removed.
Also the floorboard, brake arm, and the clutch cable.
Then the right side frame rail has to be removed in order to get to the allen head bolts that hold the right side cover.

The job is really not hard at all, just time consuming.
Like stated before the coolant has to be changed and so does the engine oil.

I have pics of the process of when I had to change the mech seal that's behind the cover but can't get them till tomorrow.

CDNRatMan · May 02, 2014, 20:03:04 PM

ok I can not find anything in any of the 3 manuals I have in regards to that actual pipe.
I have snip of the page it shows on and it is to the crankcase.
part numbers are as follows
39192-0111 pipe-water outlet $14.95
92093-1427 seals $3.78 x 2 one at each end.

now not sure how much you will have to remove to actually get in there to work but it might not be that bad, air cleaner cover, backing plate maybe, but should not be that bad really. If you are going to do this repair you might want to document it with pictures to help the rest of us out....thanks

Sorry Troll but that was a good picture that you borrowed....lol

Troll · May 02, 2014, 20:00:20 PM

Picture napper!

CDNRatMan · May 02, 2014, 19:31:50 PM

if it is the pipe in the picture I have in yellow then I will post answer from the manual, in about an hour.

Troll · May 02, 2014, 18:56:38 PM

Educated guess: that is the outlet pipe from the water pump. There are seals at each end. They are the same part number. Ratman has an 800 book, so he can probably tell you what you need to know about fixing this. Looks like $50 worth of parts and maybe a couple of hour's work... Looks like you have to take off the right side cover to get the pipe out and in...ok. Good time to change the coolant, probably needs it, anyway! Time for some intimate mechanical bike bonding!

Troll · May 02, 2014, 18:33:53 PM

Educated guess: that is the outlet pipe from the water pump. There are seals at each end. They are the same part number. Ratman has an 800 book, so he can probably tell you what you need to know about fixing this. Looks like $9 worth of parts and maybe an hour's work

Drift1 · May 02, 2014, 18:22:38 PM

g13 is there any way of taking pictures of what your talking about , or is there to much in the way ?

gdrudd13 · May 02, 2014, 07:43:23 AM

So I have no idea what it is called, but the coolant pipe on the right side of the bike, directly under the air cleaner that goes from the engine block to right engine cover is leaking. I fixed it for awhile with some high temp RTV, but the leak is back. Is there a way to modify that piece so that I can remove it, fix the bad orings, and then replace it without having to tear everything off the right side of the bike? My idea was to cut it, and then use a small piece of silicone hose to reconnect the the two pieces. What are your thoughts on this? Have you had to replace yours? If so, how did you do it?

Thanks