rear shockabsorber

[JLA]

Thank you RatMan,

When you'll buy the progresive shock, please, let me know the details (supplier, address,...) for me to buy the same; I hope it will be the last for my drifter so, I'm going to get the best.

We will follow closely your winter garage tasks.

[CDNRatMan]

 JLA: after a lot of talking phoning and sending emails, I have not found anyone who is willing to rebuild a stock shock. So that route is now closed as far as I am concerned.
I can buy a stock shock for about $400.00 (all my prices are CDN and include the tax and shipping to make it simple). I can get a Progressive 456 shock for about $500.00. So I have talked to a couple people about progressive and all positive responses, everything was good on them.
Because I am a tad over weight I decided to buy the progressive, because you can adjust the preload on them to get rid of the sag, and then you can set it to your individual settings. I will be installing mine right after the xmas holidays, and like you doing a major look, check the zerk fittings to make sure that they are in good working order, and lube in that area.

[JLA]

Hi guys, in order to close this subject...

I did the revision of all the suspension elements. First of all I'm apologizing because I did it in a hurry, the evening before a weekend trip and I was not able to take photos in that moment.
I disassembled the tie-rod completely (I took it out), and I removed all the shafts and sleeves: the one fixing the tie-rod to the swing-arm, the one fixing the tie-rod to the arm-suspension, and the one fixing the arm-suspension to the shock-absorber on the bottom. My main conclusions:

-   the 3 greasers (lubricators) at the bottom side of the arm-suspension are very important; not only for its function (to put grease into the sleeves and needle bearings) but mainly because if it are damaged or lost, dirt go into those elements and movement produces a huge abrasion. In my case the central one (which is the lower regarding the floor) was lost due to a knock. I put in the place not a new greaser but a screw in order to block up the hole (grease was put directly in the disassembled components).
-   After 42K km the wear (scuffing) of the bearings and sleeves was minimum. Only some shine in the contact areas. Replacement was not necessary at all. I moved it to other position, put a lot of good grease and assembly it again.
-   The only problem I found was that the shafts (in fact the screws) which fix the different components (those which go inside the sleeves) were not enough tight; the one fixing the tie-rod to the swing-arm was really loose in fact. I thought it was my root problem with the allowance (free movement) of the rear wheel in relation with the frame.

At the moment I'm glad with the result. Anyway, I do not reject the idea of replacing the shock-absorber in the future. RatMan, I know from other topics in this forum taht you were looking for the best spare part; Do you already have a new shock-ab?

Nice day
JLA

[CDNRatMan]

  Have read and heard of people that lower their bikes actually damaging them greases fittings. They are also in the way when you are trying to lift it on a jack.

[kw-retrorider]

There are 3 on the bottom facing down.....so now I better grease them!

[CDNRatMan]

   If I remember correctly because I am inside and not near my bike there are 3 of them right under the bike, 2 were easy to grease and the one was a royal PITA......but I did get them done.

[greenbarn]

I think they have zerks, don't they?  I know over the winter I gave mine the complete once-over and I remember greasing something down there on that lower linkage.  The drawing JLA provided doesn't show them and I don't remember exactly where they were or how many, but unless I'm remembering wrong (which IS  possible, then I believe there are some zerks.

[kw-retrorider]

Another place for more zerks!

[Troll]

It's got to be one of those needle roller bearings that's worn out...they can't last long without grease!

[greenbarn]

JLA, you're an artist. Nice diagramm !!!!!

+1 on that.  That's a more complex mechanism that I had realized.

....my 235 lbs body mass is too much for it I think.

+1 on that too.   

[Gerhardberger]

JLA, you're an artist. Nice diagramm !!!!!

[CDNRatMan]

  ok because you live in Spain you do not get down time like I do. This would be a winter project for me. I have not looked really close at the rear suspension as of yet, but your art work is awesome, great artist you are. I can understand if the bushing is wore out then it could cause some issues with the free paly of the shock its self. I would look at the whole thing first to see what is actually happening. In my case the shock is just wore out and old, my 235 lbs body mass is too much for it I think. I have heard from other members that they really like their progressive 456, which sounds really good and can be adjusted in more ways then just with the numbers on the side.

[JLA]

Hi RatMan, I quite agree some images are always aprecciate. So, Here you are; this first couple of images are the 'route map' for an analysis of all the elements and conections 'playing this game'; and the second with the identification of the individual parts I'll find there when disassembly.

Coming soon other photos with the real parts during the disassembling and diagnosis (perhaps in 2 weeks, because I'll out at least 9 days from now on).

[Gerhardberger]

pictures would be awesome so we can see and follow the action.

+1

[CDNRatMan]

  pictures would be awesome so we can see and follow the action.

[JLA]

Good photo, G

The adjustment of the shockabsorber load is not the problem; neither the wheel balance, I Think.  I was testing all the possible allowance ('free movement', fullness, I dont really know the right word in english) from the rear wheel, through the swing-arm and through the tie-rod to the arm and, at the end, to the shockabsorber. And I have found that there is an abnormal 'free movement' in the conexion between the swing-arm and the tie-rod. So, a several millimetres free vertical movement in the rear wheel does NOT transfer any movement to the arm. I have to remove the flanged bolt fixing the tie-rod to the swingarm in order to verify (to replace, in fact) the sleeve and the needle bearings there. And I also will check the same in the other end of the tie-rod (its conection with the arm).

I'll report to you my 'experiences' in this interesting garage task.

[Gerhardberger]

Unlike my Spanish buddy "G" who is a steady 150 lbs, and in shape......

[CDNRatMan]

Mine is the original, from 99 and it is set to 7 now and I still bottom out the odd times, so this winter I am changeing it to a new one, but then I am a slim trim 235 lbs, so perhaps that does cause some issues.
Unlike my Spanish buddy "G" who is a steady 150 lbs, and in shape......

[Troll]

Chain adjustment? O ring chains sometimes develop a stiff spot that will cause this...and if it only happens at a particular speed, wheel balance.

[Gerhardberger]

Did u check at what strenght (1-7) you have adjusted your rear shock? I mean "ajustar precarga" in spanish.
With a 12' tube you can adjust it quite easy in 2min, and check if it happens at all settings!

[JLA]

Hi again,

In these first ridings with my drifter I'm noticing an annoying vibration in the rear wheel, and I'm sure it comes from some looseness or wearing in the rear suspension.  I'm considering to replace the shockabsorver. A couple of questions:
- How often do you use to replace this part?
- what other parts are neccesary to replace at the same time of the shockabsorver?

Thanks in advance