Cooling system flush

[Varooom]

I really don't worry about the old Volvo much.  Last summer I noticed the heat gauge in the red so I pulled over after getting no heat out of the heater core and, sure enough, the pump was spraying out of its front end.  Got back in and drove 5 miles home.
Next day had it towed in to the station and a new pump and fluid installed.  I asked my mechanic if I'd done any damage by driving it with no fluid.  His response: 'No, none at all.  You have to do something way more radical than driving without antifreeze to kill one of these oldies!'
It gets Syntec every 15,000 miles whether it needs it or not!
Varooom

[Troll]

  As I remember, the Volvo uses a sealed surge tank rather than an open to the atmosphere one, and it's the oxygen getting into the system, especially with the "new" style antifreeze with organic inhibitors and propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol.  V-W was the first company in Europe to use this formulation, and the use of it spread due to the "world market". Emission laws in Europe required sealed cooling systems long before the same thing started here. As long as no oxygen gets into the system, theoretically, it should not deteriorate. I would question the replacement coolant you have in the Volvo now, since it's probably not the same formula as the original...Keep an eye on it

[Varooom]

Had to change the antifreeze in our 1991 Volvo last summer when the water pump broke.  First time in 240,000 miles.  Go figure!  Just hit 250K!
Varooom

[cochise]

I had an antifreeze leak in a 1997 Intrepid , ended up being core ( frost ) plug between the motor and trans.  What a job to do by yourself lying on your back. I was amazed at the rusted out condition of the plugs and replaced them all. A knowledgeable mechanic said it was from not dumping the antifreeze and changing it every couple years. Although I maintained it and kept the readings at about -30 degrees the chemicals in the old antifreeze broke down and ate the steel plugs. I inquired at a few auto parts stores for the test strips they used to have and no one under 60 knew what I meant. Couldn't find any. Just because it's green and good to -30  doesn't mean it's still good. Play it safe and change it. Much cheaper than the alternative.

[chief]

I strongly recommend looking in our mods section on the web site. There is a lot of good info, from fellow Drifter riders that can be very useful.

[Varooom]

That gadget page is where I learned how to rebuild my clutch and the results have been eyeopening.
Thanks,
Varooom
PS:  -10 F up here in NH; going skiing when it moderates up into the teens tomorrow.

[aclone]

If your still looking gadgets page has some great info on how and what to use.

[chief]

Believe me, I learn something new from you guys everyday... or you force me to question and research!

[Varooom]

No disrespect felt; this has been educational for me.  As soon as spring arrives I'll get the job done!
Thanks for all the info,
Varooom

[drifter918]

Varooom no disrespect to you as a Sr. member, but all fluids break down in time. Do you really want to gamble the cost of a new engine on the answer you gave me ?

[chief]

Let me know if these don't answer your question... I can take instructions from the manual.

[drifter918]

thanks for the info chief.

[chief]

Click on the link I gave you... three articles on how to do it...

[drifter918]

I agree with Troll. I had a 64 Buick LeSabre in high school. It had aluminum heads and an aluminum intake. It was nothing but a problem. That being said, my problem still exists, how to best flush the system?

[Troll]

  Antifreeze, no matter what kind you have, has a service life. The so called extended life "dexcool" stuff will deteriorate in a system with an open overflow tank, like on the drifter, or most cars built before 2006. The culprit with dexcool is oxygen getting into the system. This causes silicate drop out and turns the coolant to a mixture of sand and brown water. Normal ethylene glycol antifreeze is to be replaced every 24,000 miles or 2 years. The inhibitors in the antifreeze are "used up" and the PH of the coolant goes out of range. Not a big deal in an iron engine, just causes rust, and dissolves core plugs (mistakenly called freeze plugs), and begins to eat seals in the water pump. Aluminum engines (like ours) are very sensitive to acidic solutions, and the antifreeze will actually plug the cooling passages with dissolved aluminum. Anybody here remember the 1962 Buick 215 inch all aluminum engines? The only thing wrong with them was the antifreeze used at the time was not compatible with aluminum engines. Flushing a cooling system is only half the battle. The other half is putting the right stuff back in. No matter what you add, you need to use either distilled or deionized water. Purity is essential.

[chief]

mods/tips section of main site has info on radiator flush.

http://www.VulcandrifterRiders.com/reviewpost/showcat.php/cat/70

According to the PM schedule coolant should be changed every two years.

[Varooom]

Why do you need to flush it?  I've got 80,000 miles on my 1999 1500 and it's got the original fluid in it; working like a charm at -10 out in the garage.
Just curious,
Varooom

[drifter918]

I need to flush my 2006 800 drifters cooling system. I've read that I should use vinegar. Is this true and does any one have any tips for the process. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.