FIXED: I Have an idea, but HELP!

[45 Bravo]

I guess I should have given an update.
The afternoon in march when I last posted. I fixed the problem with a new ground cable and. Anew battery.

Sorry.

Great info and links.
Thanks.

[chief]

Here's a reference which may come in handy.

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/drifterparts.html

[greenbarn]

same as everybody else said - the more cranking amps you can get the better (up to the point of reason of course).  If you work the battery 100% of it's capacity it will generally fail sooner than if you only work it 80% of it's capacity, etc.

You might as well wait until you need to buy a battery, and then buy the correct size for the bike.  No sense in taking out a battery that is working (IMHO) unless you have a need for it in another bike or project.

[drifter-paul]

You need the 16 from personal experience, first battery lasted 8 yrs, the 14 shit itself after two winters. I (think ) the crank amperage is 280 , which is what some 16 will provide, and 14's only offer 200 something -  the 14 is fine for starting a small piston bike ( a 1500/6 Goldwing is a small piston bike - 250cc).

Check the battery book when buying, there are two ratings one in the "200" range and a higher one (if applicable) - you want to see that the battery you are buying has a high crank amperage if running a big-twin.

[ratze]

check ur ground connections.

[michaelh42]

I have a YTK -14-BS in my 2002 1500. Seems to fit well. must be a slight design change. Not sure if there are any differences in the specs for amps ans such.

[49Reo]

All's well that ends well.

Regards and such,
49Reo

[45 Bravo]

Ok, after having to take the cage to work this afternoon (the bike quitting was on my lunch break.)
I got to take a look.

The metal end on my negative battery cable (the part that screws to the battery post) broke.

The interruption in power was the negative end making & losing contact with the battery.

Quick fix, uncrimp the old one, put a new one on. Then took it on a 40 mile ride. EOP (End Of Problem)

But i uncovered another issue that i will  correct, they have the wrong battery in it, the prev. owner (or someone before him)
put a ytx14-bs battery in it not the ytx16-bs it calls for, so there is some room for movement of the battery.

Sorry for the premature call for help before i knew the problem, but my pride and joy was sick, and needed help (and i had to go back to work)

As always great answers from great people.

Thanks.

45 Bravo

[49Reo]

I had the battery on my '02 crap out on me a couple of years ago in Montana; it started fine, went into town from where I was staying, (about 25 miles) no problem. On the way back, bike started fine, slowly and steadily lost power on the way back, quit when I let the throttle down to an idle in the shop, DEAD. Nothing. One new battery later, all was good. Not a moments trouble up 'til then. So, long story short, take your battery in and have it load tested. They don't usually charge for that, and if nothing else, it will rule it out.

Good luck;

Regards and such,
49Reo

[Troll]

Well, it IS fuel injected, so the power source is VERY important. The first thing I would look at is the tightness/cleanliness of those battery connections. These sealed batteries have a long life span, but they can still get corroded and loose connections.

[45 Bravo]

Just what i get for bragging on my drifter on here the other day.

1999 drifter 1500,  22,500 miles.

Today on the way to work it started cutting out. all the lights on the panel would come on, then go off and it would run again, it did it about 5 or 6 times until i could get it the 1/4 mile back home.

now it is just nothing, no lights, no fi, light, no oil light, just dead.

I THINK it might need a new battery (i have no idea of the age of the battery.) But being non fuel injected, it would still move fuel.

I have noticed the last 2 days it was a little harder to start than normal.
(read that as it had to turn over for 3 or 4 seconds instead of less than 1) to fire up.

What is everyones thoughts?

Ian