Cam Chain replacement

[49Reo]

Hi; one thing to look for on bearings/races is "noticeable damage": ie pitting of races, spalling, (chips or pieces pulled from the surface) excessive movement of rolling elements in bearing cages, (needle bearing rollers,etc.) noticeable "indentations" in races from the rollers. If you are unsure, best thing is to replace it now, while engine is out of bike and apart; if it fails after re-assembly with the old bearings, you might get hurt trying to kick yourself,lol.

Regards and such,
49Reo

[drifter-paul]

Camshaft/tensioner progress,

Thanks 49Reo, Chief for your help.

Have now gone whole hog (no offence intended).

The frame will be sent off for Soda blasting (gentler than sand-blasting) and then I will use KBS 3 step system coatings to neuter minor spider-rust  and then custom paint tank/fenders/sidecovers with frame and ancillaries retained in Gloss black.

A newbie question - what is acceptable wear ?
-  As I take more things apart - e.g. HLAs,  steering stem top and bottom race - I can see a patina where the needle bearings rest , or a surface has rubbed (mirror streak on HLA face). It is undetectable/unmeasurable - i.e. running a fingernail across it, with eyes closed /vernier. Is this normal part-mating or should I replace anything that does not have a pristine surface across the whole face/circumference ?

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question , but I have to watch the budget, while trying to cover everything that should be done while the engine is out and frame stripped.  This bike is a keeper - I want it for another 12 years/although probably only 50,000 miles over that time.

P.S. KBS coatings (single component moisture curing urethane coatings and sealers for automotive, etc, yarda, yarda) appears to be a new Australia system, I will report on how well it works when the project is finished .

[drifter-paul]

Way to go, Ratze. Found it there. 14043-1056 Filer,Oil x 4- $5.25. Not in Kawa Manual or CycleParts. There is a low hole in that section to feed the non KACR end of the camshaft, and a larger hole for the feed-in, only thing I can guess, is that the fillter is magnetic. ? No rush, and they're only $5 each . Unlike the HLA unit at $75 !!! A rocker arm  is $87. Will have to research the Hydraulic lash adjusters - that seems excessive.

Each rocker near the KACR end of the camshafts need to be replaced.

Will send the forward camshaft off, to be welded and dressed, due to 2-3mm * 1/10mm pitted area.

Mechanic suggested replacing HLAs (if viable) - they have a mirrored strip across the face, no roughness, can't discern any wear with my fingernail. At $75 * 8 , I'm hoping someone can comment on this , or if there is a cheaper non OEM .

[ratze]

powers edge ota mich has good info on this, google it. go to oem drifter pts, great microfich. good luck with er, let us know how it comes out.

[drifter-paul]

Thanks Chief,

I found that site in another of your many interesting posts, and have been building my replacement parts list using that.

I found the said filters, for the cylinder head when browsing that site but can't find it again - including looking in the
Californian versions - will not worry about it.

Reason I asked was, my '94 BMW R1100RS (new series altogether from the 'R100') dry clutch turned into a wet clutch because
BMW dispensed with a felt collar on the throw shaft for the new series. Had to regress to the old style shaft to keep it a dry clutch.

Will use the 2 piece Mean Streak kit for the springer plate in the clutch as per this forum, as that plate is also 1/3 worn since the
100K replacement - WILL also check the spings this time - as per another of your posts.

This is a great site, your dedication especially (and that of other contributors) is much appreciated.

Paul~

[chief]

You know you can go to buykawasaki.com, click on accessories&apparel, motorcycles, cruisers, select 1500 Drifter, 1999, and then parts diagram... to see what was/wasn't on the Drifter and get part numbers.

[drifter-paul]

Thanks, I reluctantly borrowed an impact wrench and that did the job. The rocker cap did not have filters to fit into the 4 prong slots - like it says in my '98 manual. Checking the CP parts site ('99 Drifter) they are not listed either, although later models, 2006 Mean Streak, have them ? Can't figure out how they would work. The base where they would sit is a dimpled metal - is this a magnetised insert ? Should i get some anyway ? Were they forgotten during factory installation , or were they dropped for the first Drifter and re-introduced later ?

Anyone able to comment on this, and how they work ?

Regards,

[49Reo]

Hi, Paul; in my manual, it says to remove the nut with an impact wrench; if you want, I can scan those pages and send them to you as well. Let me know.

Regards and such,
Fred (49Reo)

[drifter-paul]

Thanks 49REO, that solved it , as per my P.M. 

Have started on the right side now, am at the clutch now - have replaced the curved  plate before using the copper coin trick - but this time , althought the copper STOPS the gears from turning, the 27mm nut and silver plate just spin and won't loosen . 

Any ideas, anyone ?

[49Reo]

Hello; I have a Kawasaki Vulcan Drifter service manual, for '01 and '02 models; I will look and see if the manual has the info you require and scan/email the info to you; am quite busy right now, but will try to get it to you tonight or tomorrow. Hopefully it won't be too far off from the '99 model.

Regards and such, Fred

Paul; as per last post, sent you some info; please let me know if it comes through ok.

Regards and such,
Fred

[49Reo]

Hello; I have a Kawasaki Vulcan Drifter service manual, for '01 and '02 models; I will look and see if the manual has the info you require and scan/email the info to you; am quite busy right now, but will try to get it to you tonight or tomorrow. Hopefully it won't be too far off from the '99 model.

Regards and such, Fred

[drifter-paul]

Have taken the engine out and removed the cam covers and rockers. Looking down the chain tunnel I can see the extender is fully out.

Have used a Clymer VN1500 Vulcan Classic 1996-1998 manual, so far (only thing available here , when I bought the bike new). I want to understand the timing procedure/marks before i unbolt any more parts - obviosly it must be pretty close, but can't relate it to what is in the manual. Searching on the internet, others have this problem too with the Clymer manual.

Is there a source , with diagrams, where i can get  this information specific to the Drifter. Have cranked it over by hand to try and make sense of the marks for cam chain re TDC etc, but can't see any alignment marks that (do) match up - thoroughly (temporarily) beat at this stage.

Any help, greatly appreciated

[chief]

Personally I would - simply so I won't HAVE to do it later. I think you would have to inspect it to be sure, but once open I'd go ahead and replace the darn thing...

[drifter-paul]

Hi all. I was registered with this forum a few years ago, but have forgotten my old login details. I remembered an article on Cam Chain Tensioner Extenders - should have printed it and used it earlier. Now it is too late.    Having refound the article by Tim Acree I checked my 1500 99' Drifter and i have 3/8" 10mm extension , Tim says 5/16" is OUT OF TRAVEL and he's right. It was full of oil.

I have 80,000 miles on my '99 1500 Drifter.

I've located my Clymer Vulcan "classic" 1996 - 1998 manual (closest I could get to a Drifter manual in 1999) - looks a big job,  but not overly difficult.

Before I take the engine apart, is there an easy way to check how worn the chain is ? If it is at this level of wear, would I  be better replacing the chain and guide and tensioner, as a matter of course ?

There is no oil in the spark plug hollow, so the collar has not been worn thru.

Any expertise/shortcuts from this Forum will be much appreciated . 

Many Thanks, drifter-paul (Australia)