Rear cylider extremely hot..... burning leg...

[Varooom]

You need to bleed THE TOP OF THE ENGINE with the bleeder nut under the speedometer.
Please see my earlier post above.
Varooom

[Bernie]

Thanks i released bubble from filler tube when i flushed, then filled, i aslo just checked the bleeder on water pump, coolant coming out when i open.  What about the water pump?  Can the power commander III be set wrong?  I don't have the ability to computer set it but it can be set manually (it has low,mid and high RPM buttons). The bike has V&H longshots.

[Varooom]

A couple more notes from the repair manual:
Soft Water 50% or you'll corrode the internal aluminum parts leading to clogged tubes in your radiator.
When filling, open the bleeder bolt, just forward of the under gas tank filler cap and retighten to 7.8 N-m (69 in-lb)
then: "Bleed air from the cooling system while the engine is running.  Start the engine with the radiator cap removed (the show the cap under the gas tank, not on the radiator) and run it until no more air bubbles can be seen in the coolant.  Tap the radiator hoses to force any air bubbles caught inside.   Stop the engine and add coolant up to the radiator filler neck.  Install the radiator cap.
then: Remove the reserve tank cap again.  Fill teh reserve tank up to the FULL level with coolant and install the cap.
Then: pressure test the system.
Hope you didn't run the bike too long in Harley mode and cook the rings,
Varooom

[ramakins]

Did u bleed the air from the waterpump after filling it with coolant (thats the upper left hand bolt on the pump, also located there is the idle speed hold bracket. Then loosen the air breather bolt, located next to fillercap, and top off until u see coolant seep out then tighten, install filler cap.
There are steps in this procedure that are reletively simple ( in shop manual), but if not followed, u will trap air in the system, and will cause to overheat ( thats from personal experience, I have had the same thing happen to me, in the past).

[Bernie]

yes there is fluid in there, and after i flushed the system and filled it to full as the bike cooled down it sucked some in but it did not empty, ithen topped off. How can i get rid of air or check to make sure system bled of air

[Varooom]

I've driven all over at above 90 F ambient temps and never felt that intense heat.  The fan always kicks in when it gets hot and I'm stuck in traffic and blows uniformly hot air back and keeps the temp gauge hi but not hot.

Could you have an air lock in the internal cooling channels of the rear cylinder?  Is there fluid in your right side expansion reservoir?
Varooom

[chief]

Well if its coming from the right side... its likely heat from the rear pipe header and not actually the cylinder. Mine gets hot right there bacause of the pipe. As long as I move around a bit the heat doesn't build up on that leg. Your right thigh is really close to the header right there.

You might want to try some sort of heat shield there if its really bothering you. I know mine runs no where near as hot as my harley.

BUT you might want to take some temperature readings to ensure there isn't a problem on that rear cylinder. You said you replaced the plugs... did you install the same heat range on the plug?

I wouldn't worry about parts until you determine if there is actually a problem. You will mostly stick with oem parts in this case. The oem part numbers can be used to find aftermarket parts.

[Bernie]

I have a 2000 1500 drifter i just changed the coolant, the bike has V&H pipes, fuel processor, 9500 miles.  it seems that the bike runs extremely hot for a liquid cooled bike, my harley doesn't run this hot. my leg and a_ _ are on fire from cylinder heat. I replaced plugs.  The fan goes on, no idiot lights go on.  maybe this is how bike runs, can someone advise.  Could it be the themostate or sensor?  Is there a water pump, can it be replaced. Are there any cross reference parts for the thermostate or sensors,switches available, or only OEM?  Thanks