The next step was the right side of the motor, starting with the clutch. This photo is is a shot of the first time I attempted to mount the clutch, (before installing the cylinders and chains. It was a failed attempt, but the photos of the assembly were good, so please excuse the missing cylinders in these shots.

The clutch should be assembled while looking at an exploded view, and with notes. The order goes like this: Onto the transmission output shaft, install: Chamfered clutch housing washer, with chamfered side toward engine; Freshly oiled needle bearing set; Clean, oiled clutch housing bushing; Outer Basket Clutch Housing over bushing; Clutch center thrust washer; Clutch center (the inner basket); Clutch center washer; Clutch center nut (this is a single-use locknut).

DON'T DO THIS
I hadn't yet figured out that the cam chain guides have to go in before you start putting components onto shafts. So I put on the thrust washer, bearings, bushing, outer clutch housing, all the other stuff, and the inner one. Then I filled the clutch with clean, oiled friction plates, and felt pretty good about my progress until I discovered that the crimped lock nut that holds the inner basket in place was a single use part, and had to be installed onto an empty clutch with a special tool.

I drove down to the nearest Kawasaki dealership, shelled out nine bucks for a new lock nut, and found out that the clutch holding tool used for tightening the lock nut is really hard to find.

I sniveled and searched for the factory tool, and waited, and searched some more, and when I next had some time to work on the engine I bucked up and bought some 1" X 1/4" heavy guage strap steel, and made alot of noise bending and grinding and drilling it to the proper shape. It took about thirty minutes to fabricate, and it held the basket perfectly. In the photos below, note the size and thickness of the new tool, and it's comparison to the old one.

The new tool was made from a four foot long piece of one inch wide steel, one quarter inch thick. It was cut into two lengths of two foot each, then, on both pieces, I ground the last three inches of one end down so that it's edge fit perfectly between the splines of the inner clutch basket. The one inch width of the steel barely fit into the gap between the outer and inner baskets. This would help it to stay firmly seated in the splines. There was no way it could pop out, there wasn't room.

The last two inches of the shaped end was marked off, and clamped into a vice. I then pulled the steel over into a tight bend, and pounded on it with a two pound sledge until it was a nice, tidy ninety degree angle. Then I yanked it sidewaze until I thught I'd achieved enough offset so that when the tool was in scissor mode the end would still be perpedicular to the radius of the clutch basket instead of angled away. It took a couple of tries. Bending the second piece required more thought, because I had to get both the ears pointing the same direction, with the shaped edge pointing inward. If you make one, think about that before you bend the second piece. the shaped edges have to face each other when the tool is completed.

The two pieces were drilled and bolted together eighteen inches or so away from the ears. They were carefully inserted into the splines of the clutch basket, and the tool held beautifully as I torqued the lock nut up to the required 95 foot pounds.

Here is the right side of the engine with both clutch baskets in place, ready for plates and cap.

the assembly was completed, the shift shaft was inserted, (it wobbled around alot...I believe it is supposed to), and the five 8mm bolts were torqued down to 78 inch pounds.

...of course, as I'm writing this I just realized that I forgot to offset the last plate into the shallow grooves. So, my next operation will be to un-torque those five bolts, and re-align the outside plate. Damn! Stuff like this ALWAYS works me. Now I'm gonna have to triple check all the stuff I've done.