Vulcan Drifter Riders

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 1 
 on: Today at 17:40:13 
Started by OR Seedman - Last post by OR Seedman
must be....there was absolutely no way to clear the bottom of the frame to remove the 2 lowest sitting casing bolts on this one.....I was lifting the entire rear of the bike up with the rear head against the frame well before the bolts would clear...

 2 
 on: Today at 13:12:53 
Started by BlackBlueMagoo - Last post by BlackBlueMagoo
I have a Correction on swaping parts. I have been having front brake problems on my 99/1500J Drifter. I picked up a complete fron brake set up..caliper/line/master cylinder from a 02 Vulcan 1500..but could never get the brake to pump up with the Vulcan system.
Did some more checking(and a lot of cussing)and found out that the bore on the master cylinder of the Vulcan is 1/2..and the bore on the master cylinder for the 1500J Drifter is 14MM! It seems to me(after much trial and error)the 1500J needs to be a bigger bore because it requires more pressure to operate the front brake properly. I have the original 1500J system back on the bike..with a rebuilt caliper/pressure tested brake line/and master cylinder rebuild kit installed. Filled it up with new DOT4,pumped up the line, put on my one way brake bleeder..and presto..firm lever and plenty of front brakes. to all..sorry for the wrong info prior! Respects.

 3 
 on: Today at 12:25:54 
Started by OR Seedman - Last post by Troll
total time is difficult to calculate....I was working on it between doing things on the research farm....I would say that if I focused on just doing the bearing, total time would have been about 4 hrs....I did try the trick of removing the rear engine mounts and lifting up the back of the engine to clear the frame with the lower bolts on the casing (like you see on youtube), but that doesn't work with a Drifter...not enough clearance above the rear cylinder head to the frame....so I had to crack the frame and move the engine a little bit sideways....but I did not have to completely take it out....just drained and disconnect the radiator, drained the oil, disconnected the drive shaft (checked it for tightness...all good there), pulled off the rectifier, rear fender and wheel, rear diff for the shaft drive (so I could slide the shaft off of the front gear as it is spring loaded at the rear differential which forces it forward) and the seat and tank...really not that complicated...

I bought the new bearing through Global Industries (have an account with them)  it is a 62mm outer diameter with 25mm inner shaft diameter  x 17mm thick...open bearings (no seal), running in an oil-bath (not greased).  I bought a BL HD bearing with higher specs (increased max rpm of 13,000 vs 10,000 and tighter tolerances).  cost was $4.84 plus shipping, but since I had other bearings for machinery in the order as well, the shipping is negligible  (shipping total was $5.95..order was over $80).  The casing gasket was bought off of ebay for $4.00 with free shipping....

I probably spent an additional 6-8 hours cleaning it up, fixing small nit-noid things and painting....not really a whole lot of time....always in between my research work....the biggest pain in the butt was that I forgot to put the tow plastic panels back on in front of the tank....Had everything put back together and then realized I had to lift the tank up to get to the push tab holes to re-mount them...DOH!  Live and learn, I guess.... ::)


That's funny, I did mine without removing the frame rail...but mine is an R model, the frame is a bit different

 4 
 on: November 17, 2017, 16:32:40 PM 
Started by Feed Poster - Last post by Feed Poster
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 5 
 on: November 17, 2017, 16:14:27 PM 
Started by OR Seedman - Last post by OR Seedman
link to bearing page:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/motors/bearings/deep-groove-ball-bearings/deep-groove-ball-bearings-metric-6305-open-heavy-duty-25mm-bore-62mm-od

 6 
 on: November 17, 2017, 16:01:10 PM 
Started by OR Seedman - Last post by OR Seedman
total time is difficult to calculate....I was working on it between doing things on the research farm....I would say that if I focused on just doing the bearing, total time would have been about 4 hrs....I did try the trick of removing the rear engine mounts and lifting up the back of the engine to clear the frame with the lower bolts on the casing (like you see on youtube), but that doesn't work with a Drifter...not enough clearance above the rear cylinder head to the frame....so I had to crack the frame and move the engine a little bit sideways....but I did not have to completely take it out....just drained and disconnect the radiator, drained the oil, disconnected the drive shaft (checked it for tightness...all good there), pulled off the rectifier, rear fender and wheel, rear diff for the shaft drive (so I could slide the shaft off of the front gear as it is spring loaded at the rear differential which forces it forward) and the seat and tank...really not that complicated...

I bought the new bearing through Global Industries (have an account with them)  it is a 62mm outer diameter with 25mm inner shaft diameter  x 17mm thick...open bearings (no seal), running in an oil-bath (not greased).  I bought a BL HD bearing with higher specs (increased max rpm of 13,000 vs 10,000 and tighter tolerances).  cost was $4.84 plus shipping, but since I had other bearings for machinery in the order as well, the shipping is negligible  (shipping total was $5.95..order was over $80).  The casing gasket was bought off of ebay for $4.00 with free shipping....

I probably spent an additional 6-8 hours cleaning it up, fixing small nit-noid things and painting....not really a whole lot of time....always in between my research work....the biggest pain in the butt was that I forgot to put the tow plastic panels back on in front of the tank....Had everything put back together and then realized I had to lift the tank up to get to the push tab holes to re-mount them...DOH!  Live and learn, I guess.... ::)

 7 
 on: November 17, 2017, 14:03:31 PM 
Started by BlackBlueMagoo - Last post by BlackBlueMagoo
Took the front caliper over to a friends shop this morning..installed new Caliper Rebuild kit..polished up the pistons to look like shiny new dimes..pressure tested the brake line(for leaks)and rebuilt the master cylinder with a new kit. Put everything back together, hooked up the one way bleeder tool..fresh DOT4..pumped it up and pressure started to build..got a firm lever..took it for a short ride
and PRESTO...Lots of Front Brakes! I want to Thank Everyone for their input on my brake problem..it was all Good Information!
Respects. Magoo.

 8 
 on: November 17, 2017, 10:48:09 AM 
Started by drifter-paul - Last post by indue
That it is...

 9 
 on: November 17, 2017, 00:06:36 AM 
Started by CDNRatMan - Last post by CDNRatMan
  Well seems like everything is here other then the progressive springs for the front end and the progressive rear shock. So once my arm is better and I can use it as needed I will start on Pearl's metamorphosis to her new theme. We are just going to get all the parts needed and go over them and then we can start from the butterfly effect.
   rims to powder coating;
   new bars;
   new custom seat and luggage rack;
   800 watts of stereo;
   lowers;
   travel trunk;
   then the metamorphosis to the chosen theme.........

 10 
 on: November 16, 2017, 22:25:27 PM 
Started by CDNRatMan - Last post by greenbarn
probably when the snow starts....  It's a lot warmer down there,...   right?

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